Does anyone make this style coatee?

[Tobus]

Every time I think I've seen all the MacLeay portraits, I come across another one I haven't seen yet. This is one of those. I'm fascinated by the jacket/coatee and waistcoat he's wearing. They are very unique!



Is there a name for the style jacket? Pardon my lack of finer understanding of the details and names of these things. But it appears to have gauntlet cuffs and epaulets, much like an Argyle jacket. But the lapels, short tails (or whatever you call the bottom decorative portions), and the fact that it's clearly made to be wide open at the front, make for a very interesting look. Must like military coats of the time, but not really. And when coupled with that very interesting waistcoat, which appears not to have a regular overlapping-style button closure (the middles touch each other and must have some type of loops that reach over to the buttons?), as well as different-coloured border, the result is far different than anything else I've seen.

Not sure I'm a fan of the scarf or kerchief tied around his neck, though. I haven't seen that in other Highland examples, but unlike the jacket/waistcoat, it doesn't appeal to me.

So my question is three-fold. First, does this style of jacket have a name, or is it just a unique style that never caught on? Second, is there any maker who produces a replica or similar style? And third, though he clearly seems to be wearing non-formal daywear type attire (or is he?), would such a jacket be considered more on the casual or formal end? The cut, style, and square metal buttons seem like they'd be more suited to evening or formal attire, but the overall appearance could go either way to me.

Note that while I'm asking this in the traditional forum, my question is asked more in the spirit of "historical tradition" rather than "modern tradition". In other words, I'm hoping for input based on the traditions of the 1850s to the 1920s (or thereabouts), rather than the traditions of the 1930s to present day. I don't know whether that would be more appropriate for the historical forum, though I tend to think of Jacobite-era stuff and earlier is more suited to that forum.

[piperdbh]

It looks like an Argyll without a collar and with added buttons and buttonholes. It wouldn't be hard to make; it would just take a little "figuring" on the collar.

[TheBrus]

Is this a Kenmore doublet? I don't think they sell them at Sears, though. ;)

[McMurdo]

It does not appear to be a Kenmore Doublet, for comparison here is a link to highland clans
http://www.highlandclans.co.uk/Kenmore_Doublets.html

I would say this is not a style that did not catch on but rather simply an older style of coatee that has like all fashion gone out of vogue. As for having something like this produced I would suggest going to someone like Lady Chrystel to reproduce it.

[Chas]

Why not give Lady Chrystel an email, she has done some really fantastic coatees, doublets and jackets. She sort of specialises in that era. If nothing else, you will find out how much such a thing will cost

http://www.lady-chrystel-kilts.com

Regards

Chas

[Tobus]

I would say this is not a style that did not catch on but rather simply an older style of coatee that has like all fashion gone out of vogue.

Are there other images from that era that show further examples of this style? If so, I either haven't seen them or I wasn't paying attention. It may very well be that a lot of Highlanders wore similar jackets in that era, and if so, I'd love to see any images of them!

Yes, Lady Chrystel was my first thought on reproducing this. I should start saving now...

[Chas]

I think that there are two things that should be said -

Firstly, she would produce a totally bespoke garment. Gauntlet cuffs - working or non-working. Look at the OP picture and then at a modern cuff. The modern ones are far tighter to the sleeve. Which do you prefer? Tashes - straight or slanting, straight bottomed, or round, or arched, or double arched, or Moorish arched?
That is the beauty of a bespoke garment - it is made how you want it.

Secondly, her costs are no more than a really good coatee. I think her work represents value for money.

Regards

Chas

[creagdhubh]

Both Lady Chrystel or highlandclans would be my top choices for such a garment. There are also other prominent bespoke tailors out there, in Scotland and England, that may take such a garment on. I absolutely love MacLeay's portraits, as well as the era in which you mentioned.

Good luck!

[McMurdo]

Are there other images from that era that show further examples of this style? If so, I either haven't seen them or I wasn't paying attention. It may very well be that a lot of Highlanders wore similar jackets in that era, and if so, I'd love to see any images of them!

Yes, Lady Chrystel was my first thought on reproducing this. I should start saving now...

I found these photos in the Vintage thread, the jacket on the one gent wearing a kilt does look similar to the one you are looking at:

The Glasgow hallkeepers and purveyors trip to Dunkeld on 21 June 1877, photographed by Duncan Brown (1819-1897).

Another from the vintage thread which while not exact is similar


Another that is close to the jacket in the print above:



There are others that are close to the jacket in the print in the vintage thread the trick is to look for the photos from the late 19th century, admittedly there are not as many photos from that era, however they can be found.

[MacLowlife]

I can't see the picture, but I looked through the MacLeay portraits elsewhere. Unless I miss my guess, your man is the one leaning against a boulder, with a Glengarry in his hand and more hair below his eyebrows than above.

Might we consider this jacket a modification of the Sheriffmuir? The buttons on the wearer's right resemble the buttons on a Sheriffmuir, but instead of buttons on the left ( as we usually see,) there are vestigial buttonholes. I think it does look a little like a Kenmore and a little like Highland Clans' ACHARA doublet:
http://www.highlandclans.com/Kilt_Doublets.html only without the gilt braid.

Hothir Ethelnor's Gordon Tartan doublet is similar, as I remember. He had a thread on it last August...