I'm with Anne -- if you haven't sewn the pleats yet, then make the top apron and pleats out of the continuous fabric. It should end at the inner fold of the deep pleat, plus an inch or so for seam allowance. Then cut another piece long enough for the under apron and half the deep pleat plus seam allowance. Put the two pieces RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER and stitch a straight seam from hem to waist.
Don't try to put the seam in the pleat next to top apron -- that pleat doesn't fold straight, due to taper of top apron.
I've put lots of joins into kilts, as Anne says some camo and all corduroy demands to be cut and joined in that fashion. If your fabric tends to unravel when cut, you could run some zig-zag along the raw edges -- probably easier to do this before making the seam -- the same way you finished raw edges on that first small rectangle.
Proudly Duncan [maternal], MacDonald and MacDaniel [paternal].
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