Going to sew my own kilt, any suggestions before I start?

[MarkReaves]

I'm gonna sew my own kilt within a week (have to prepare the sewing machine, get some more practice in with it, get some fabric and more thread). I will be making a "test kilt" probably using an old sheet or other very cheap fabric just for testing my sewing and such. After I'm confident in my abilities, I will work with the more expensive fabric.

I have questions for anyone willing to answer them, keep in mind that I have researched a lot when it comes to making kilts, but I am wanting to make a "utility kilt" and NOT a traditional kilt. The kilt I want to make has to have cargo pockets (might try to do a Velcro or button system to allow them to be removed whole). It also has to have pleats that will not "catch" on things as I brush by. It will also have to be relatively sturdy as I do a lot of outdoor activities along with a lot of getting in and out of cars and sitting on rough surfaces. It also has to be cool because where I'm at, it can get quite hot (100+ the past few days). I am also a large man who is also on a diet. The waist will be held with Velcro so it can adjust with my reducing waist. The kilt will be worn at the same place as pants and shorts and will have belt loops. For those wondering, my current measurement when my pants sit is 52in. and the length from there to my knee is about 23in.

My questions are:
* What's the best fabric for a utility kilt that is a good mix of function of cost. I don't want to spend more than $50 TOTAL for fabric for this kilt.
* Are there any diagrams or examples I can see online of pleats? I'm unsure of what kind of pleats to use and how much fabric they will need.
* Anyone know how to sew cargo pockets?
* Has anyone here made their own Utility kilt? If so, could you give me some tips and advice and maybe some pictures?

Any tips, advice and such would be appreciated.

[SteveB]

My first sewn kilt was not a "real" traditional. I managed to hit Jo-ann Fabrics when they had some 14 oz denim in black on sale for two dollars a yard double width. I bought the bolt. A google of Kilt making brought up X-Marks the Scot/DIY forum. There are many good suggestions there. It also brought up Kilt Making by R.E. Glover, and Kilt making by Jan Bruyndonckx. This lead me to getting The fine Art of Kiltmaking by Barbara Tewksbury ( Barb T on this board) Even if you should use one of the others, check out her suggestions on the kiltmaker's forum. They helped me through my first self colour kilt. I still wear my creation, with attachable cargo pockets at the fell. I simply took a pair of cargo trousers that I had expanded beyond, and studied the construction. I basically made two capri leg cargo pockets that hang from Velco and snaps on each side. On the pocket assemblies, I sewed at the bottom a flap of fabric that tucks into one of the side pleats, and snaps to the inner side of the pleat. When I remove the pockets, the kilt behaves like a traditional.

[meinfs]

I'm gonna sew my own kilt within a week (have to prepare the sewing machine, get some more practice in with it, get some fabric and more thread). I will be making a "test kilt" probably using an old sheet or other very cheap [...]
My questions are:
* What's the best fabric for a utility kilt that is a good mix of function of cost. I don't want to spend more than $50 TOTAL for fabric for this kilt.
* Are there any diagrams or examples I can see online of pleats? I'm unsure of what kind of pleats to use and how much fabric they will need.
* Anyone know how to sew cargo pockets?
* Has anyone here made their own Utility kilt? If so, could you give me some tips and advice and maybe some pictures?

Any tips, advice and such would be appreciated.

Hi Mark and welcome to X Marks.

I would say go get your denim and not waste time on making a "test kilt" on old sheets.
But do know how to use the sewing machine. Cut a piece of denim and stitch zig-zags and straight stitches, reverse stitches, reinforced stitches etc. for practice. Practice with the excess fabric from your double-width. You're going to be handling a lot of material at the machine, so beware of how the fabric moves as it goes through the needle (use needles made for denim). Denim would fit your need for a sturdy fabric. I'm new at kilt-making so I don't have a lot of experience dealing with different fabrics.


These resources I've used and I recommend:
-- Alan H's X-Kilt manual is a great resource for a contemporary kilts sewn by machine. It has instructions on how to make cargo pockets and how many yards to use.

-- Barbara Tewksbury's book is what I followed to make a traditional kilt (made out of denim) that is hand-sewn. It's a wonderfully detailed book that you can use as a general resource and reference.
I mention that here (and I know you are not interested in making a traditional kilt), only because of my evolution as a budding kilt-maker. I used it first and learned a lot from it.


Check out my posts on here for pictures, etc.

My X-Kilt:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/m...026/index.html

My traditional (non-tartan) kilt:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/m...552/index.html


Good luck and show us pictures of your work!!!

[Pleater]

I started off my kilt wearing at 50 inches - it was more of an equator than a waist.

I made and remade kilts smaller as I lost in circumference - because I could.

I started off making Kingussie style, where the pleats all face forward, but quickly changed to the reverse of that as it is far less catching.

I began by making 20 small pleats, as it is so easy to measure in metric, divide by ten and have the amount of fabric for each pleat. I then divided the width of pleats on each side by ten and that gave me the reveal of each pleat.

As I was determined to lose weight I did not shape the edges of the aprons at first, as that will take 6 inches of fabric out of the upper apron, and I made the under apron 2 inches smaller than the over apron, as I would only shape one side and so remove 4 inches.

If you lose lots of weight, or size, you could remove the waistband and move the pleat folds slightly closer together, then replace the waistband. Once you have the pleats established either by pressing or sewing the outer edge it is fairly easy to keep them and adjust them as required.

You can start off with the aprons being half the circumference of the waist, and as you get smaller the pleats will move around to the more normal situation of being several inches more than half and the aprons correspondingly less.

I have made kilts out of all sorts of material, and I am not sure about denim - I'd prefer a heavy canvas, simply because denim is made with different warp and weft. Canvas has a warp and weft which are more similar, like traditional tartan materials.

It is easier to make a kilt out of a fabric where you can tear it along the grain line, as you really need to have the edges of the fabric on the grain, as that helps with the pleats lying straight.

I usually start out by washing and ironing the fabric, tearing it into strips and then measuring and pressing the pleats in - before any sewing. It really helps with the eventual neatness of the kilt to press everything possible into the cloth whilst you can still open it out and get to all parts of it. It also shows up any errors in calculation before you put in too much work, and gives you a fair idea of what the finished kilt will look like.

When sewing it really helps to have the machine on a table large enough to hold all the material, as it can make a jog in a seam of the fabric slides unexpectedly whilst you are working. I use a desk and have the machine at the right hand edge of it so there is lots of space for the fabric to lie on, both to the side and behind the machine.

[kmehrtens]

I’m glad to see that you have decided to make your own kilt, rather than buying one. I used 7-8 oz. 65/35 polyester/cotton twill fabric from Hancock Fabric and from http://www.sellfabric.com/servlet/StoreFront The fabric cost me around $5-$6 a yard and I used 4 yards with 12 - 2” wide knife pleats with 2” depth (each pleat uses 6” of fabric) and a 12” front apron. I have a 31” waist, 36” hips and a 21” length.

Here are my first two kilts (I have since made a black kilt also):
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/m...060/index.html

Here is my info on how I made inside pockets:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/k...183/index.html

[MarkReaves]

Cool, I do thank everyone for their advice and comments so far.

All advice and guidance would be greatly appreciated as learning as much as possible (preferably from others who have been down the same road) will help greatly when I get to making my own kilt.

I'm thinking the most difficulty for me when making my kilt will be the cargo pockets and making sure I get the right amount of the right kind of fabric and making sure I don't screw up too bad.

I'm looking to spend under $50 total for fabric and thread. Where my pants hang (which is where I plan to wear the kilt) is about 52in and the length of the kilt will be 22in or 23in. I've heard 1in to 2in pleats look best, I'm still studying pleats and such (kind of confusing to someone who never sewn pleats).

I'm aiming at "simple yet functional" in design. Of course, I want it to look good also because I will be more likely to wear a good looking kilt everywhere.

The xkilt design seems pretty good but I need the pleat gif? It seems to be missing or I'm overlooking it. Does anyone have a copy?

Thanks again :-)

[fluter]

The xkilt design seems pretty good but I need the pleat gif? It seems to be missing or I'm overlooking it. Does anyone have a copy?

The diagram is Appendix A, page 29 of the PDF document. It shows a sample layout from one of the X-kilt prototypes. You can study that, read (and re-read ) the instructions, and work out about how much fabric you need.

The fabric will probably be double width: most of us just bought 4 yards (or whatever) and when it was split, we had material for 2 kilts. You could seam it together (like a traditional kilt made from double width), but that adds a bit of complexity.

There are several discussions in the Xmarks archives. Search through the DIY forum until you find them. in "search this forum" try entering "xkilt" and "x-kilt."

Poly-cotton twill is great, because the pleats should hold a press well. I couldn't find any locally, so my first 2 are all-cotton & tend to be a bit wrinkly. Later on, I may look for some denim in a cotton and polyester blend. Right now I'm working on 2 hand sewn trad kilts (one in throw-away fabric, one in real tartan).

Best wishes, and we want to see pictures!

[MarkReaves]

Here's an update:
Just got the fabric and some materials today.

Managed to find some 100% cotton fabric for a total of about $4.50 (a little over 2 yards). I also picked up 5ft of industrial strength Velcro (yes I plan to use it to hold the kilt on me, already planned out a way to keep it hidden from sight while keeping the kilt snug even as I loose sizes). Picked up some no-sew buttons also (for the detachable cargo pockets). Picked up some matching thread also.

Total cost of materials: Less than $20

So basically if I horribly screw up, I'm out $20 and some time.

I will likely be measuring out the fabric and doing some sewing tonight or tomorrow (have to clean off the sewing desk).

I will be sure to post pictures!

[MarkReaves]

An update:

Today I managed to get the rest of the supplies I needed (forgot chalk!) and also got more fabric (screwed up on the first piece, but it's recoverable).

Got it all marked up and laid out, sewed a few pleats... fell asleep.

Just now waking up from that nap :P I would post pics of the marked up fabric but can't find the camera.

Annoyances during this experience so far, thread kept breaking during sewing, had to thread the machine in a way that is different than it's supposed to be just to keep the thread from breaking so often. Still sews fine.

[meinfs]

An update:

[...]

Annoyances during this experience so far, thread kept breaking during sewing, had to thread the machine in a way that is different than it's supposed to be just to keep the thread from breaking so often. Still sews fine.

... Make sure you use high quality 100% polyester thread (I use Gutterman, based on other's recommendation). I hear that "Dual Duty" these days is made from polyester only (and no cotton, as in the older dual duty threads).