Argyll Vests

[Jock Scot]

So you would not suggest it for day wear Jock?

I will go as far as to say that a tartan, cut on the bias, waistcoat is not day wear attire, it is incorrect dress. In 60 something years I cannot recall seeing a tartan waistcoat worn as day wear. Now, if we are talking tweed Argylls or black barathea Argylls then a matching(with the jacket) 5/6 button waistcoat is correct for day wear. However, I notice the modern trend of the black barathea, silver buttoned, Argyll is now being worn as evening wear too. In this case, a three button waistcoat would be appropriate and I suppose in this circumstance, the tartan waistcoat option is available. Although in my minds eye, I think that for evening wear, a tartan waistcoat and black ARGYLL might still not look quite right. I certainly have not seen it worn in that combination either.

[Cavebear58]

Actually my jacket and vest size ended up being quite different. My jacket is a 44R off the rack (to accommodate my shoulder width - it's a bit big on the waist) and as I'm rather narrow in the waist my vest is a 40R.

Yes, I had that trouble too - the firm that supplied both by mail order swapped the vest for me, which was good.

Of the ones I've seen, quite a few of the vests have a polyester pseudo-silk back with a flimsy buckle arrangement to tighten them. If you are after a smart look and may decide to go without the jacket much, then you can buy a waiter's vest which has a regular fabric on both front and rear and doesn't have such a silly rear adjuster. Just a thought, Graham.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

I have to agree with Jock Scot; I've only seen one person (the late Lord Borthwick) wear a tartan waistcoat with a tweed day wear jacket. The only reason that it worked (in my opinion) was that the repeat of the sett of the Borthwick Tartan on the waistcoat was about one and a half inches, in other words much tinier than the repeat on Borthwick's kilt.

With a black Argyll jacket a black waistcoat, cut either for day wear (5/6 buttons) or evening wear (3/4 buttons), is the only appropriate choice.

[JSFMACLJR]

I have to agree with Jock Scot; I've only seen one person (the late Lord Borthwick) wear a tartan waistcoat with a tweed day wear jacket. The only reason that it worked (in my opinion) was that the repeat of the sett of the Borthwick Tartan on the waistcoat was about one and a half inches, in other words much tinier than the repeat on Borthwick's kilt.

.

I do have a photograph of Farquharson of Invercauld wearing a tartan waistcoat. Interestingly, if you look very closely, it appears that Invercauld is wearing two belts!



Sandford MacLean

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

I do have a photograph of Farquharson of Invercauld wearing a tartan waistcoat. Interestingly, if you look very closely, it appears that Invercauld is wearing two belts!



Sandford MacLean

I can't make out if that's a second belt, or the hem of a lightweight pull over worn to keep out the cold. BUT what this shows is how some Scots really do dress, as opposed to the photos seen on kilt shop web sites. No one seems to be worried about sporran straps matching shoes, or flashes, or any of the myriad of other things some of us really do spend too much time on. Both gentlemen are impeccably and traditionally dressed, as befits the occasion and their status.

Invercauld is wearing a tartan waistcoat (not cut on the bias) with four pockets. His watch is in the top pockets. His visible belt (worn over the waistcoat) displays either his arms or crest (I can't quite make it out). He looks every inch a Highland Chief, which he is, right down to his horse blanket kilt pin, worn the correct way with the clasp down.

And that's why Invercauld's outfit works. Everything is worn correctly (kilt at right height, hose at right height, sporran right where it needs to be, etc.). What a great photo!

[beloitpiper]

Matt Newsome wears a tartan waistcoat for daywear very well!



I think it only works with the tweed kilt. If it was paired with a matching tartan kilt, then it would be more formal.

[JSFMACLJR]

Here is another photograph, taken from a Clan Campbell publication ( God knows why a MacLean would have Campbell propaganda lying about! ), showing Campbell of Airds ( the current Airds ) wearing a tartan waistcoat with a tweed jacket. Having met Airds, I can vouch that he is always well turned out on "State" occasions, especially when in tabard and uniform as Islay Herald Extraordinary.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

I often wear this vest with matching kilt. It never fails to draw compliments.


The front has the tartan on the bias, as seen. The back is also tartan, though straight. I find it a nice contrast (though you don't see the back when worn with a jacket). I, personally, find tartan vests to be more attractive when on the bias, if you are going to wear it with the kilt. Something about the slight contrast above and below the waist. I was inspired to have this vest made after seeing early nineteenth century bias-cut tartan vests.

I've worn it with and without a jacket, and certainly don't feel the need to reserve it for formal wear.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

By the way, the appellations of "Argyle vest" meaning a 5-button vest, and "Prince Charlie vest" meaning a 3-button vest, seem to be commonly used in the Highland dress industry, at least by those suppliers I have had contact with. Most likely becayse a 5-button vest is typically worn with an Argyle jacket, while a 3-button vest is worn with a Prince Charlie.

I've seen 3-button vests worn with Argyle-cut jackets to nice effect, especially when made from black Barathea and with Braemar cuffs. But I don't know what I'd think about a 5-button vest with a Prince Charlie....

[Riverkilt]

I really liked the diagonal tartan from seeing Matt's pics of his. When I ordered up my first tartan waistcoat from Kathy Lare I requested that cut, but she urged me to let her make it regular - like Invercauld and Airds are wearing theirs.

Can't recall why, maybe the tartan layout, maybe the fabric left after making my kilt from the material. But I trusted her experienced judgement on such matters.

But I like the results. Maybe next one will be on the bias.



Ron