13 oz 5 yard vs 16 oz 4 yard

[Remy]

Hello all,
I'm currently in the market for my first wool kilt and I have it narrowed down netween two options. Because of my budget it will either be a 5 yard 13 oz wool from USA kilts or a 4 yard 16 oz from the Scottish Tartans Museum. I know both sellers have excellant reputations as far as quality and customer service go, so those aren't issues. What would you choose, a higher yardage lighter weight kilt or a lower yardage heavier weight kilt? I've never even held a wool kilt let alone wore one so I have no idea what the difference in fabric weight would feel like. So, what say you all?
Remy

[xman]

I say, 'Yes'. It's a tough question to answer especially when you've narrowed it down to two narrow choices. I suppose the final answer there would be determined by which tartan(s) are in consideration and more importantly what purpose the kilt will serve for me. Personally, I've decided to sew a 5 yard in 13 oz first and put together a box pleat a little later. YMMV.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

David Pope swears by the 16 oz. 5 yard knife pleat kilt, and having seen his in action I have to agree with him. It's not the weight of the kilt, but rather the amount of fabric that can make a kilt unbearably hot in the summer. The weight of the fabric can, and in my opinion, does, make a big difference in how the kilt looks and hangs. For the best of both worlds I'd recommend going with the 16 oz. kilt.

[RockyR]

If the 13 and 16 oz cloth are both 'regular' tartans with no surcharge (Old & Rare or Rare Select = "Red Text" in our wool tartan gallery), then I'd suggest a 16 oz 5 yarder over the 13 oz 5 yarder. There's not THAT much difference in 'heat', yet the 16 oz cloth hangs a little bit nicer b/c of the added weight.

All things being equal, I usually suggest a 16 oz 5 yarder over a 13 oz 5 yarder IF possible (some tartans are only available in 13 oz).

I'm not commenting on which manufacturer to choose, but will state that there's no surcharge for 16 oz cloth in a 5 yarder vs. 13 oz cloth, so that's what I'd suggest IF you choose to go with USA Kilts. Matt also makes a very nice quality kilt, so you will be happy either way.






**Devil on your left shoulder whispering into your ear: "You can always get one of each".

[seanachie]

Are you looking for a knife or a box pleat? I know both companies you have looked at have good reputations. If you like box pleats, and I definitely do, two other vendors worth looking at are Skye Highland Outfitters and Keltoi. Both Josh at SHO and John at Keltoi make wonderful box pleats and kingussie pleated kilts (along with knife pleated, but I don't own one except in PV).

I own 16 oz 4 yard and am very pleased, the one variance with the 13 oz is that it wrinkles a little more but not dramatically, and hey that tartan is so nice (Capercaillie) it matters little to me

[piperdbh]

If both fabrics are the same tartan, same colorway, and going to be pleated the same way, I'd recommend the 4-yarder in the 16 oz. If however, you're comparing a knife-pleated, 5-yard, 13 oz. modern tartan to a box-pleated, 4-yard 16 oz. ancient tartan, then I can't help you.




**Angel on your right shoulder whispering into your ear, "You can always get one of each!"

[fluter]

To be excruciatingly pedantic, the FABRIC in a 13-ounce 5 yard will weigh almost the same as that in a 16-ounce 4 yard kilt---say, within half an ounce of two pounds, before things are trimmed around the edges. 2.5 yards of 13 ounce is actually 1/2 ounce more than 2 yards of 16 ounce, but it's not all that precise.

If that is truly your choice (e.g. if the heavier fabric is more costly), you cannot go wrong either way! you could probably select from 5 more XMTS sponsors and get an equally good result, but I don't see how you can go wrong with Rocky or Matt.

Is the 4 yard you're considering a box-pleat? You may want to mock up how the pleats will look in various options, and see if you have a favorite. If you want to share the tartan choices, we love to play those speculative games, too! Also, ask your kiltmaker...

[Ryan Ross]

Wichever kilt you decide on, I'd strongly reccomend (like the other folks) to go with 16 ounce cloth. I have a four yard box pleat and a five yard kingussie pleat, both in 16 ounce (with a five yard knife pleat in the queue) from Matt, and the difference between four and five yards, in terms of the heat factor in the summer, is not really noticable; in the winter, both are warm enough for any mormal circumstances.

I do have an 8 yard knife pleat in 13 ounce material, and I notice a world of difference in how easily the fabric holds on to a wrinkle.

In the past, I've also had a five yard knife pleat in 13 ounce material; I no longer have that kilt and would never choose 13 oz. over 16 oz., for a kilt that was under 8 yards.

EDIT: If you can swing it, and if you really want an extrasuper-fantastic kilt, I think it's well worth seeing if you can get your kilt in DC Dalgliesh cloth; I think it has, far-and-away, the best hand and selvage. I know it's a long shot to find the tartan you want from Dalgliesh at a simmilar price as you might find from other mills, but if you got really lucky...

[Joe Gondek]

I have both a six yard and 5 yard in 16 oz and I find them comfortable all year long.

16 oz is very wrinkle resistant and has a great swing

[BrazHunter]

How's your weather ?
I prefer to wear a lighter kilt at the summer and a heavier one during the winter... I'm not saying that heavier kilt works only for cold weather, some find heavier kilts comfortable during all climates, but heavier can make you sweat a bit more during summer... It's a matter of how comfortable will you be !

Regards