how many yards for my new kilt

**David Dubh** · 10th January 09, 01:07 PM

Hi all I'm looking for some advice from the group.
I'm considering a new tartan kilt but 8 yard or 4-5 yards. With all deference to Matt I would like other opinions. I ordered a 5 yard a couple of years ago it was knife pleated (perhaps box pleat is better? Matt??) and had wanted a 16oz tartan (they used a 13oz) so I was able to return it and get a refund. When it arrived the pleats were very shallow and it didn't look hang or swing well. I had got my first kilt from them 16oz hand sewn 8 yarder. What I'm looking for is other peoples experiences and advice. I'm a 37 waist and 42 hip. What do thers of similar size recomend. Also is hand stiched that superior to a good machine sewn one?

**McMurdo** · 10th January 09, 01:16 PM

It all depends what you will be using the kilt for, as you are in Red Deer, I'd say you may get more wear from an 8 yard. I now for a fact even in comparatively balmy Toronto, I do not wear my 4 or 5 yard kilts often in winter as it just gets to cold for them. I tend to wear the 8 yard hand sewn variety more than any other, but I've got some machine sewn as well, again it all depends on what you want to do with your kilt.

**Jock Scot** · 10th January 09, 01:22 PM

My word you are opening a whole can of worms here! However, in my humble opinon go for the very best you can afford and if that means 8/9 yards of a 16oz wool cloth of your tartan of choice(family if you can),handstitched,knife pleated and made by the best kiltmaker you can find, then go for it.You will not regret it.

**Pleater** · 10th January 09, 01:55 PM

If you are going for a heavyweight material then a box pleated kilt from 4 yarns will look well - though I think you need to take the set size into consideration as that might make the forming of the pleats awkward in some circumstances. You can them use a shorter length - though the double box pleat is well worth considering if the ones I have seen are anything to go by.

With a standard knife pleat 5 yards is a bit skimpy - I make my own kilts so I have the luxury of not having to be too frugal, and tend not to use less than 6 metres, 6.5 yards for my 40 inch waist.

I must confess though that the top of the stack is 8 yards of 16 oz tartan, 8 yards of 13 oz tartan, 5 metres of 54 inch wide heavy black wool, 5 metres of 60 inch wide desert camo DPM - so quite a few generously sized kilts could be made from that.

I can't judge hand versus machine really, as I rejected a totally machine stitched kilt as I could not get it perfect enough. I use a machine for putting on the waistband and belt loops where the machine can cope with the thickness of folds, and for hems and edges when I am in a hurry. Given time enough, I would sew a whole kilt by hand.

I suspect that more pleats make for a better swing, once they are larger than a certain size which would depend on the weight and surface finish of the fabric used.

Anne the Pleater

**David Dubh** · 10th January 09, 03:16 PM

Sorry I've left it a bit too open. I have a magnificent MacDonald of the Isle Hunting ancient colours. I was thinking of something that I would wear more frequently. If I go 4-5 yards is 16oz a must? What is a double box pleat??

**McMurdo** · 10th January 09, 03:22 PM

I'd say 16oz would be better for a box pleat, I have three of Matt's box pleated kilts, they are too light for 13oz wool for me anyway. MacDonald of the Isle Hunting ancient colours is a wonderful tartan, I'm assuming that it is an 8 yarder, therefore perhaps a 5-6 yard knife pleat may be better if you find the 8 yard kilt too hot.

**English Bloke** · 10th January 09, 04:28 PM

These are Double Box Pleats.

http://pagesperso-orange.fr/lady.chrystel/kilts.html

Lady Chrystel and her husband post under the user name 'annciene alliance'. You're in for a treat exploring the pictures of her work I must say.

**David Dubh** · 10th January 09, 08:29 PM

Thanks for the info on a double box pleat. Does it need a full 8 yards?

**Howard Clark** · 10th January 09, 11:07 PM

Six, I believe is what the double box requires.

**M. A. C. Newsome** · 11th January 09, 06:12 AM

I'll just chime in and say that what you are asking is really a matter of preference. When comparing, say, a four yard box pleated kilt to an eight yard knife pleated kilt (or even a six yard knife pleated kilt), it's not fair to say one is "better" than the other. They are both fine kilts, just different styles. And each style will have its advantages. In the end, it's up to the wearer and what style you favor.

Seems like I posted a guide on here somewhere to help folks decide just this question. I'll have to search for it and maybe post a link...

Edit: Found it! Click here.