Kilt Hose - How much fold?

**Friday** · 19th May 13, 09:21 PM

I have started knitting a set of basic plain kilt hose. Simple knit 4, purl 2 ribbing for the length of the hose. However, my question is if you were designing a pair of custom knit hose what would you want in the length of the fold at the top of the hose?I am considering about 3 inches (7.6 cm).

**Carlo** · 20th May 13, 04:49 AM

I'd guess that depends on your hight and your legs.
3 inches for me would be at the upper end.

**Chas** · 20th May 13, 05:10 AM

Enough, so it covers the garter.

Regards

Chas

**creagdhubh** · 20th May 13, 06:12 AM

I agree with Chas, but for aesthetic purposes, I would say about 3-4 inches.

**Jock Scot** · 20th May 13, 06:32 AM

It depends, but about 2 to 3 inches is somewhere near. The far more important measurement is the one between the top of the hose -----once it has been turned down------and the bottom of the knee cap. These days, particularly with shooting hose( usually worn with plus 2's & 4's) being used with the kilt, there is a tendency for them to be worn too high on the leg for best effect with the kilt.

**creagdhubh** · 20th May 13, 07:12 AM

Originally Posted by Jock Scot

It depends, but about 2 to 3 inches is somewhere near. The far more important measurement is the one between the top of the hose -----once it has been turned down------and the bottom of the knee cap. These days, particularly with shooting hose( usually worn with plus 2's & 4's) being used with the kilt, there is a tendency for them to be worn too high on the leg for best effect with the kilt.

I agree, Jock. I always try to maintain a 3-4 finger width between the very bottom part of my knee to the very top of my hose turnover. Of course from a historical perspective, kilt hose were often worn much lower on the leg. This is especially evident from old portraits of men wearing Highland dress.

**Grizzly** · 20th May 13, 11:45 AM

I think you may be over thinking this. As long as you have a turnover that covers the garter then it doesn't really matter. 3-4 fingers width of bare flesh below the knee and a turnover no more than 3-4 inches. But honestly don't measure life's too short.

**piperdbh** · 20th May 13, 12:05 PM

3 inches is just right, and knit the foldover portion about half an inch longer than you want the finished cuff to be, since some of the length will be stretched out when you put the sock on. It has to stretch to fit your calf, and the stretch will come from the length. Also, if your pattern says, after you complete the cuff, to turn the sock inside out and continue in pattern, you can disregard that and keep up your K4P2 rib. When you fold over the cuff, it will show K2P4, which I like.

**Friday** · 20th May 13, 12:51 PM

Piperdbh I had not considered of the stretch/shrink factor even though I am well aware of it. I'll add the 1/2 inch.

I like the idea of the contrast between k2p4 for the rib and k4p2 for the body. However, I am in the process of changing from Portuguese style of knitting to the continental and my tension is not what it should be. The second hose should be much better, but, right now the transition between knit and purl leave a lot to be desired.

**sydnie7** · 20th May 13, 12:59 PM

Originally Posted by Friday

[snip]. . .my tension is not what it should be. The second hose should be much better, but, right now the transition between knit and purl leave a lot to be desired.

I've fussed over that in my own knitting since day one (with no change in protocol to blame!). Recently this thread showed a very expensive pair of hand-knits and, wow, their ribbing looks a lot like mine! Now I'm trying to, well, not ignore the issue but not beat myself up about it so much. Anybody who gets that close to a man's kilt hose while they are being worn has more to answer for!