Low yardage box pleat vs higher yardage knife pleats

[Steelkilt]

I’ve never seen a box pleated kilt, what is different with this style as opposed to a higher yardage kilt (knife, Kingussie, etc)? Other than total yards of material used and pleating differences, does it look radically different? Move differently? What should a guy know when choosing between styles? Thanks in advance!

[Tobus]

Yes, it does look very different from the rear and it moves differently. A low-yardage box-pleat will "billow" rather than "swish", in my experience. Due to the shallowness and style of the pleats, it just doesn't have the freedom to move as much. It's apples and oranges between the two.

For one, the pleats are much wider. They tend to look more square and symmetrical than a one-way narrow pleating style like knife pleats in a high-yardage kilt.

One major difference I've noticed is that a box-pleated kilt tends to open up the pleats with minor movement, exposing the tartan inside the pleats more easily than a knife-pleated kilt does. This is because they expand out like an accordion (for lack of a better comparison). And again, the shallowness of the pleats pulls the material more easily open.

A couple of photos of the rear of my box-pleated kilt for reference:

[Father Bill]

This is a box pleated 4 1/2 yard. The pictures don't show the pleats, but they do show to some extent how it behaves and lays out.

[ShaunMaxwell]

Here's my 4-yard box pleat in Maxwell hunting (to the double stripe):



Here's my 8-yard Maxwell modern (to the sett):



To echo Tobus' comments, my low-yardage box doesn't really swing (but my 8-yard sure does!). That said, the box-pleat is much lighter and probably a bit more comfortable. Both are 16 oz. wool.

SM

[The Wizard of BC]

From the end box pleats look like this -



Each pleat is three layers thick.


A Knife pleated kilt may have many layers. It depends on the size of the Tartan Sett and the width of each pleat.



In the above two photos, both are pleated to the yellow stripe. So each pleat uses the same amount of fabric. One Tartan Sett.

If we pleat to Sett where the Tartan pattern is retained this may also effect how much fabric is needed as each pleat used one full Sett plus the width of the next pleat.



The width of each individual pleat can also effect the amount of fabric used. Here is the same pleating to stripe as the second photo above but now each pleat is wider.



In very general terms we call a box pleated kilt "A 4 yard kilt" - A narrow or refined knife pleated kilt is usually called "An 8 yard kilt". - While a wide or rugged pleat is often used to save fabric and is called "A 5 yard kilt".

Kinguisse pleating take its name from a kilt in the Kinguisse museum. Basically it is a style with one wide "Tail" in the back with the pleats on each side facing in the opposite direction.



If you flop Kinguisse pleating over you now have what is called Reverse Kinguissie or Rev-K for short. This is the type of pleating normally found on the Utility style kilts.



There are about as many ways to fold fabric into pleats as there are kilt and skirt makers.
Another type of pleating is called MilitaryBbox Pleats or uneven leg box pleats.

[Steelkilt]

When you say billow vs swish, is that to say that the pleats tend to fly up more with box pleats, potentially exposing one’s rear?

Yes, it does look very different from the rear and it moves differently. A low-yardage box-pleat will "billow" rather than "swish", in my experience. Due to the shallowness and style of the pleats, it just doesn't have the freedom to move as much. It's apples and oranges between the two.

For one, the pleats are much wider. They tend to look more square and symmetrical than a one-way narrow pleating style like knife pleats in a high-yardage kilt.

One major difference I've noticed is that a box-pleated kilt tends to open up the pleats with minor movement, exposing the tartan inside the pleats more easily than a knife-pleated kilt does. This is because they expand out like an accordion (for lack of a better comparison). And again, the shallowness of the pleats pulls the material more easily open.

A couple of photos of the rear of my box-pleated kilt for reference:

[Tobus]

When you say billow vs swish, is that to say that the pleats tend to fly up more with box pleats, potentially exposing one’s rear?

No, I wasn't really saying that (although I suppose it would be possible). I just meant that the movement of the pleat area when walking is different than a knife-pleat. The knife-pleated kilt will swish in a sort of ripple-like effect due to the way the pleats overlap. But the box-pleated kilt doesn't have that kind of side-to-side swishy movement. The pleats just sort of expand and contract. It's difficult to describe in typed words.

Take a look above at my photo of the box pleats while I'm walking. The pleats just open up or expand outward, not side to side. Then look at my pleats below on one of my knife-pleated kilts. See how the pleating allows the side-to-side swish movement?

[Steelkilt]

Thank you, that helps! Do you have a preference? Are there advantages (other than cost) to a box pleat vs the others?

[Tobus]

My personal preference is a traditional 8-yard knife pleat. I just like the look better, and it's more versatile for dressy occasions. The box pleat may be cheaper and lighter, but I really just like knife pleats for the look and swish.

Military box pleats, on the other hand, are the best thing since sliced bread.

[Tarheel]

I just looked through all my photos and could not find a single one of me walking away to give you a comparison. I like my 4 yard box pleat and my 6 yard knife pleated kilt equally but for different reasons. The knife pleat swings, the box pleat swings less side to side. I can feel the weight difference and use them for different times and function. I hope you get the kilt that fits your needs (before the addiction takes you to a closet of several types and styles of kilts). Cheers