Machine stitching: how much, if any?

[akwusmc]

As a newbie (to kilt-making and sewing in general) and someone who has a condition that affects my hand function, how much machine stitching can one get away with making a traditional kilt?

SWMBO is a good sewer, and we're not lacking in capable machines (all Singers 1963 and younger, save the serger), but my hand deficiencies ... I don't know.

Just wondering.

TIA,

Anthony

[The Wizard of BC]

It really depends on how you define traditional.

If you are following the instructions in "The Art of Kiltmaking" all the stitching is done by hand. Barb will admit to machine sewing the first line of stitching for a waistband on occasion but no stitching should show anywhere.

The word traditional can also be applied to a style of kilt. This is characterized by aprons slightly wider than 1/2 the waist and tapered down to the hem to achieve a vertical line at about where the side seam of trousers would be.
There is then pleating in the entire back. These may be knife, Kingussie, Reverse Kingussie, Military box or almost any other style of pleating.
There is no hem. The selvedge of the fabric serves as the bottom of the kilt.
There is between 2"and 4" of rise built into a traditional kilt. This is measured from the center of the top straps and buckles. The rise should flare outwards slightly to allow the top of the kilt to fit over the ribs.
Then inside the kilt there will be some forum of internal construction. I have seen traditional style kilts with an absolute minimum of internal interfacing consisting of three pieces of burlap up to the full interfacing and stabilizer.
The stitching of a traditional style kilt may be mostly machine stitching finished with hand stitching of the pleats. (The Current Royal Regiment kilt are made this way) up to fully machine stitched where the pleats are sewn with blind machine stitching.

Traditional can also refer to how the kilt is worn. Wearing a kilt in the traditional manner means that the top straps are cinched into the natural waist or just under the rib-cage. In this way of wearing a kilt the top of the kilt is up, over the lower ribs, and would be approx. three to four finger widths below the bottom of the sternum or breastbone.
Wearing a kilt traditionally would also have the hem reach down no lower than the middle of the kneecap and preferably at the top of the kneecap.
I have seen totally machine sewn kilts designed to be worn traditionally.