Making My First Kilt

[Lady Emer]

Hello Everyone,
I am thinking about making my first kilt. I have Barb T's book, I think its awesone. I have been sewing for about 40 years. Making a kilt would be the most difficult thing I have done. I am a little intimidated about the pleating. The kilt is for my boyfriend, who will be wearing it in his daughters wedding in May 2013. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I an very determined to learn this wonderful craft. Thanks Debbie

[Grizzly]

Hi Debbie and welcome from Southampton in the UK. Cant help with the kilt but wish you good luck. There are many on here that can give you all the sage advice you need.

Dont forget to post some pictures of your progress.

[Pleater]

Hello Debbie

I knit and sew all sorts of things and the secret of making a kilt seems to be accuracy in aligning and gently distorting the straight threads of the fabric.

If you have 'the book' then every part of the process is described, and following it should result in a fine garment - but I find that I need to put on my reading glasses and sometimes use a pair of magnifying ones to see that the stitching runs along the right line - though now I am over 60 the eyesight is not what it was.

If you have any problems this forum has a number of highly skilled kiltmakers, including the author herself and help should be forthcoming if requested.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[David Thorpe]

Go for it, Debbie! I started with Barb T.'s book about 6 months ago with very little sewing experience. I now have completed 6 lovely kilts and have 5 more in the queue. "The Book" is a very comprehensive guide which someone with your experience should be able to use effectively the first time out. Welcome to the "cult"!
The only downside I have experienced is the addiction!

[Stephan]

[IMG]IMG00368-20121024-1735.jpg[/IMG]

Debbie,

I just thought I'd put a few things in perspective for you by making a few comments. I have 'the book', ordered it in June. Now unlike yourself, I had no real practical knowledge of sewing. Zilch! In preparation for my kilt making adventure I read the book very carefully to familiarize myself with everything from picking tartan cloth to pleating. Like you, I figured my biggest hurdle would be the pleats...and, it WAS! I'm not saying this to scare you off. Remember, you've been sewing for 40 years, right? After having received my tartan cloth (chose a Mackay-Modern Colours, 16 oz, single width, 8 yards from the House of Edgar)through the post, I used the rest of the summer to learn about how to identify the sett, the 'repeat' of the pattern....my intention was to pleat to the sett rather than the stripe. I actually chose the Mackay tartan because Barb suggested that it had a nice simple 'AB' pattern and a good choice for a first-time kilt making project.

I have to mention that everyone is correct to say that Barb is VERY helpful with all kilt making advice. I have had some seemingly pretty silly and newbie questions but she has always taken the time to answer, clarify and explain. Also, Barb has either authored a few helpful kilt making threads on this forum or has certainly contributed to discussions started by others. So, make sure you check them out.(Barb T)

As for the book, I suggest you actually follow every directive and advice it has to offer. It's human nature to try to find an easier alternative route when faced with a complication (such as pleating!) even when we couldn't possibly know the difference because of our lack of experience. In other words, because of my utter lack of practical experience in sewing or kilt making I had to follow the book faithfully. I had no choice! It simply meant that the blind(that's me) was being led by the far more knowledgable(that's Barb). For example, after MANY weeks of attempting to pleat and then ripping out and pleating and ripping out I thought there HAD to be an easier way or a special secret of some kind. Nope. Barb was very kind to reiterate all the advice outlined in the book. So now, after almost two months of constant sewing and ripping(very gently) without much success I seem to be getting the hang of it. In fact, it was only last weekend that I had decided that I was not happy with the state of my pleats - too wide, not straight, over-check wasn't lining up with the next pleat - and so forth. So, I ripped out all 12 pleats -again- and started over. It seems to me I've been sewing the same pleats over and over again for ever! I just finished the 19th pleat yesterday in a kilt that will have 25...woo hoo!

I'm already looking to order new tartan cloth and start the adventure all over again. Also, I'm going to see if I can attend a 'kilt camp' sometime next summer. So, I think you'll be just fine!!! I wish you much success, Debbie.

Stephan

[kiltmakernh]

You may want to begin your kiltmaking adventures using a piece of scrap tartan (If you have one) for practice planning, folding, and stitching pleats. Then you can get the feel of it without marking up tartan. When I have new students at Kilt Camp, that is the part where they all struggle. If you remember Elsie and Barb's advice about the 4 basic types of pleats (plain, centered, edged, and half-and-half), it may help clarify where to mark each pleat. You really need to look at your tartan, trying to identify places where each type of pleat would be appropriate so that you can reproduce the tartan.

The big thing that I struggled with at first was matching the stripes as I sewed--every person needs a different offset (described by Barb). Some only need a thread or two. I need 4-5 threads, probably because of the way that my stitches come out and angle back to the right, because I belong to the "ridge" school. The kilt stitches show on the front of the kilt, although they tend to blend into the twill, and create a tiny ridge at the edge of the pleat that you can feel. This is more Elsie Stuehmeyer's way of sewing than Barb's. You need to experiment to see what works for you.

You may spend an hour on the first pleat, only to decide that you hate it. You need to rip it out and try again--remember that this is the part that really shows on the kilt. Once you get past those pleats, the rest will fall into place.

The only other piece of advice that I have is to do every bit of basting that Barb says to do. There is no shortcut.

Have fun!!

Judy

[Lady Emer]

Hello All,
Thank you'all so much for your wonderful advice. I will heed everything you have to say. This will be a Great adventure for me. I am very excited to make this kilt for my boyfriend. I am going to take my time, read Barb's book, which I have been doing over & over, cover to cover. I'm not as stressed as I was in the beginning, because of reading it, & now that I have all this great advice, I will be even more calm. As soon as I start I will post my progress.
Thanks Again,
Debbie

[Barb T]

And just email me when you have questions!

[BCAC]

Please note that Barb said WHEN you have questions, not IF you have questions!