Military kilt length question

[tokareva]

I've noticed that a few of you have the real military issue or the reproduction WPG military kilts. How much length would I need to add to my regular size for a correct fit? How true is the waist size on the reproduction version?
Thank you.

[Tobus]

I can't speak for the kilts from WPG. But true military kilts are typically sized by the wearer's overall height and waist/hip size. The label will read like the one below, from my QOH military surplus kilt. It shows the waist and hip (breech) size in centimeters, followed by the person's overall height. They do not specify the actual drop or total kilt height in the sizing. I guess they just assume that everyone is built the same, and that overall height correlates exactly to kilt length (which we know it doesn't).



But if WPG is giving you the total kilt height (it seems they have only 25" and 27" available?), then it would be best to enquire about the rise and drop lengths to be sure. Usually military kilts will have a 3" rise, if I recall correctly. So a 25" kilt would be a 22" drop and a 3" rise, with a 27" kilt having a 24" drop and 3" rise. I would have them verify that, though. Some older military kilts could have a 4" rise, or a 2" rise if they were not standard-issue, etc. I just don't know where the WPG kilts come from. Someone else here who has bought one may be able to confirm the rise on them, assuming they're all the same.

[tokareva]

I just spoke to them, they said measure at the naval and order that length. I always order 23" to 23.5 " being the overall length, the entire kilt that is. Does that sound right. Something tells me the kilt would be short if I ordered my normal length. I'm 5'11" if that helps any.
Thank you.

Edit: I just called again to verify the drop vs.rise length, the gentleman on the phone is almost impossible to understand, and may actually know less about kilts than me... all he can tell me is it's a military kilt made to be worn under the ribs.I did however get him to say the lengths given are the overall length of the kilt.

[The Wizard of BC]

Please be very cautious when measuring a kilt designed to be worn in the military style.

We talk about the length of a kilt but this word 'length' means different things to different people.

In a kilt made in the traditional manner (AKA "The Art of Kiltmaking"), and the military manner, the Drop is measured from the center of the top strap - down to the bottom of the hem.
There is then either 2 or 3 inches of kilt above the top strap. This is called "The Rise".

The total length of the kilt from the top of the top band, down to the hem is Drop + Rise.

Kilts made in the traditional and military manner are not worn at the level of the navel. In fact the navel is in different places on different guys so is a very poor way of measuring for a kilt. Most kiltmakers take measurements based on the bones which do not change position.

All traditional and military style kilts are designed for the top straps to cinch into the anatomical waist or right up at the bottom of the ribs. The Rise on these kilts goes up, over the ribs. Up at Kidney level.
If you want to use the front of the body the top of one of these kilts will be about two to four finger widths below the bottom of the breast bone.

For example - I am exactly 6 Feet Tall. If I measure from my navel I would take a kilt 23 inches long. If I measure at my anatomical waist it is 24 inches. My traditional kilt is 25 inches from the top to the top band down to the hem.


Another factor that is not often talked about is the Fell Area. This is the part in the back of the kilt that is tapered and sewn down. The bottom of the Fell should hit the body right at the crest of the buttocks and hips. If the bottom of the Fell is higher or lower the pleats will splay outward or create shower curtain folds.

This is what happens so often when guys try to wear a traditional kilt down at the hips. The bottom of the Fell drops below the hips and the back of the kilt ends up with shower curtain folds.

If you wish to wear your kilt lower than the ribs you will need to get a kilt designed to be worn there. I'm afraid that a military kilt will not be able to be worn like this.

[The Wizard of BC]

Here is a photo of a small doll that I made to illustrate the parts of a kilt.

There is at the very top - the rise. The rise is not tapered. The rise is a section of a cylinder.
Below that, in the rear, is the Fell. The Fell is from the anatomical waist down to the crest of the hips and buttocks. This part of the kilt is a section of a cone.
Below the bottom of the Fell are the pleats. Again, this is a section of a cylinder. The pleats should fall straight down from the Fell smoothly without wrinkles or folds with the pleats totally parallel.



This difference between Drop, Rise and total length can be best illustrated with this photo of a kilt made in the Traditional manner. You can see that the Fell area is tapered from the hips into the anatomical waist. This waist is where the top straps and buckles are.
The kilt then flares out to go up, over the ribs.



And here is how this kilt is measured.



The Drop of this kilt is 23 inches.
The Rise of this kilt is 2 inches above the Drop.
The total length of this kilt is 25 inches.

This kilt fits me perfectly and I am exactly 6 foot tall.

[tokareva]

Thank you Steve, I assure you I want to wear it the correct way, I just can't figure out what size I need.It seems like I might need a 26" length in this kilt.

Kilt.jpgh

[The Wizard of BC]

To illustrate even further here are three different styles of kilt. All three fit me perfectly.

On the left is an actual Royal Regt. of Scotland kilt in the Black Watch Tartan ver. 2. This kilt has the military contract tags.

In the middle is my Tewksbury, Traditional style kilt. The Tartan is Highland Granite.

And on the right is a Contemporary style kilt. Black Watch Tartan again but now in the weathered color version.

The length of each kilt from the bottom of the Fell, down to the hem is the same on all three kilts.

The Length of the Fell on each is the slightly different as the Contemporary is made so the top strap is at mid-rise. (or sitting on the top of the hip bones.

But, where the main difference is - is in the Rise. The Military kilt has a 3 inch Rise. The traditional kilt has a 2 inch rise. The contemporary kilt has a 1 inch rise.

[The Wizard of BC]

One easy and common trick used by "Old School" kiltmakers has led to the myth that the hem of a kilt should just brush the floor when kneeling.

What is actually happening is that the kilt maker will have the customer kneel. They will measure from the anatomical waist which is easy and convienient to find. (right below the ribs at the side.), down to the floor.


Then they make the total length of the kilt this length.

But here is the cool part. They add the rise above the top strap of the kilt when it is made. In essence they lower the top strap the amount of rise they want.

When the customer straps the kilt on the top straps cinch into the anatomical waist - the rise goes up above the waist - which brings the hem of the kilt off the floor to the top of the knee cap.

So, to find the length you need for a military style kilt kneel and find the length from the bottom of the ribs down to the floor.
Then ask the seller to measure the Drop of the kilt. (Hem up to the center of the top strap.)

Forget the total length and the Rise.

[tokareva]

Thank you Steve,I believe you have confirmed my suspicion that I need a 26" kilt in order to end up with my normal 23" length.

P.S. Great illustration with the three kilts! I think I finally understand now!

[tokareva]

OK... so just in case anybody is wondering (which I seriously doubt) I ordered the 26" long Black Watch kilt today. Hopefully it will end up being around 23" and not be too long or too short. They do have some in 25" length so I could get one shorter but not longer.

BWkilt.jpg