Pleating a kilt question!

[akaussie]

Hey there all, just curious about what those of you who have made your own kilts and those of you who are the professional kilt makers think. I have noticed that all the instructions that I have found for making my own tell me to make the first and last pleat a double sized one.
I noticed that my amerikilt doesnt have this done and was wondering what to do in regards to this when making my own. What have you all done? what is the benifit of doing this as opposed to not? Does the kilt hang better with it done? Thanks guys Cheers Andrew

[Canuck]

Put it in...helps make the front apron hang better as well when you are walking allows movement in the side. It is also important with the reverse pleat in the under apron, 'cause a lot of people hike in the under apron really tight thus creating a pull on the opposite side of the apron. It is also one of the points where darts are located to taper in the waistband.
Cheers
Robert

[akaussie]

Thankyou Robert for your advice will deffinantly put them in! You have also solved another issue I have with my amerikilt, I too pull the under apron around snug, that explains why the right side of my kilt flares out must ensure that I stop doing that in the future. I also put some velcro on to hold the under apron to the waist band, is this a bad idea?
Thanks again for you help Cheers Andrew

[Canuck]

Thankyou Robert for your advice will deffinantly put them in! You have also solved another issue I have with my amerikilt, I too pull the under apron around snug, that explains why the right side of my kilt flares out must ensure that I stop doing that in the future. I also put some velcro on to hold the under apron to the waist band, is this a bad idea?
Thanks again for you help Cheers Andrew

I don't think that should be a problem.
I had to go back to Amerikilts site to check the closure system and it's snaps right?
On another note If it is a strap closure like my kilts you can adjust the tension on both aprons, having said that I used to also torque the bottom right hip strap as well...that isn't a good idea 'cause it affects the hang of the left side of the over apron allowing it to tend to curl forward (it could also be there isn't enough taper on the left side of the apron you need to extend it about 1.5" at the bottom). The hip strap should be just buckled up with ease it'd there for looks and to aid in the apron not flying up too far...the only cure for that is a rare earth magnet no just kidding.
Cheers
Robert

[RockyR]

Making the first pleat (actually the edge of the front apron going INTO the first pleat) deeper than the others helps to "keep the shape" of the front apron. If there are 2 pleats, side by side and you start to expand them, the shallower pleat will expand first.

Also, Robert is right about reversing the last pleat. If the front apron is sewn down as far as the other pleats, the last pleat needs to be reversed.

[Canuck]

Making the first pleat (actually the edge of the front apron going INTO the first pleat) deeper than the others helps to "keep the shape" of the front apron. If there are 2 pleats, side by side and you start to expand them, the shallower pleat will expand first.

snip.

RockyR says it best....that's what I was trying to say but I don't think it came out right anywaythis should get you on your way.
Thanks RockyR all the best AK

[akaussie]

Thanks guys for your help! now I just have to get the rest of the instruction in my head right and get started. Cheers Andrew

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Hey AK, here's al little tip to keep the edges of the apron from flipping out... and it happens all the time with some kiltmakers.

When you make the initial (deeper) pleat, you will need to angle it up slightly, in order to create a tensioner for the edge. Match-up the fold at the apron and the pleat... but then take the under-folded side and pull it up 5 degrees above the waistband. It's not much of an angle or a pull, but it will make the kilt apron hug the side rather than curl out at the tips.