Potential Problem with the pleats on new kilt

[tokareva]

I received my shorter military kilt, but the pleats on the right side are all wrinkled and bunched up on the inside. If I remove the basting threads will the pleats look even worse? Is this only a matter of straightening the pleats and pressing or is there too much material there to begin with? I need to move the buckles in a little to wear it anyhow, maybe I should just exchange it for a larger size and hopefully the pleats will be better.
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[The Wizard of BC]

I'm not sure who you purchased this kilt from but the basting looks like it was done by an amateur.

The concept behind basting is that you first insure that all the pleats have the creased edge an equal distance from the centered element. In this case the black line.

Then the pleat should be the same width as it is at the bottom of the Fell area and that width continues all the way down to the hem.

The pleats must be straight and parallel. (This means that when basted the kilt will not lay flat. To press a basted kilt you must lift the Fell area up so that the pleats lay flat.)

If it were me I would remove the current basting and start over. I would make three or even four lines of basting being very careful that the pleats are straight and parallel. Within about one twill line of accuracy.

Then you can lift the Fell area and begin to press.


This is also a kilt in the Black Watch Tartan. Just the weathered version. Notice please how straight the pleats are. The Fell of this kilt has not been sewn yet but this kilt is ready to be basted. There will be one line of basting where you see each line of pins.



this kilt is being pressed. Notice please that the Fell area is lifted and that the pleats are straight and parallel.

[tokareva]

Thanks Steve, The kilt is from WPG and was made to exacting standards in Pakistan laughter (1).gif. I have decided to exchange it for a larger size, hopefully the pleats will be better on the replacement.

[plaid preacher]

Also note how Steve's kilt is basted. There are two full basting stitches on each pleat before it goes on the the next pleat. Basted as your kilt is, there is no way the pleats won't shift about, it seems to me. I hope your new kilt is in better shape.

[Kiltem in NM]

I'm not sure who you purchased this kilt from but the basting looks like it was done by an amateur.




this kilt is being pressed. Notice please that the Fell area is lifted and that the pleats are straight and parallel.

After reading about the way Freedom Kilts are made, and the exacting tolerances, A TWILL LINE, SERIOUSLY? I am stunned! I would love to study under your tutelage! I know for sure I will be ordering a Freedom Kilt in the near future. Current weight loss issues due to back surgery, and pending surgery, I'm not quite back up to my fighting weight yet. What is this red tartan? Is it something Freedom Kilts normally stocks? Also, is the logo embroidered? Awesome kilt!

[The Wizard of BC]

I believe that the Tartan you are asking about is Innes Red. This is a kilt made for a customer who asked for this specific Tartan. We usually order fabric as needed simply because there are so many different Tartans (Approx. 12,000) and all the color versions of the same Tartan (Modern, Ancient, Weathered, Repro) and the different weights and compositions. Synthetics, 13oz wool, 16oz wool.

So no, I'm sorry this is not one of our stock fabrics.

And yes, the logo is embroidered with our computerized embroidery machine right onto the kilt fabric. This one is place inside the waistbanding.

[OC Richard]

Thanks Steve, The kilt is from WPG and was made to exacting standards in Pakistan laughter (1).gif. I have decided to exchange it for a larger size, hopefully the pleats will be better on the replacement.

Personally I don't care for the WPG kilts in the least. I bought one and immediately returned it. The fabric was completely different than that used on actual kilts, military or civilian. They call it heavyweight but it's far less substantial than 13oz genuine kilting fabric. And the way that kilt was made didn't resemble kilts made by legitimate kiltmakers.

I think people wanting military style kilts would be far better off going with genuine British kilting cloth and having them made by actual kiltmakers.

My military-style kilt was made in Scotland from 18oz MOD style fabric. It looks and feels like the actual military kilts I've seen, handled, and owned.

[OC Richard]

I believe that the Tartan you are asking about is Innes Red. This is a kilt made for a customer who asked for this specific Tartan.

It's a gorgeous kilt for sure, one where (in my opinion) the back looks even better than the front. Those pleats are amazing.

[tokareva]

Personally I don't care for the WPG kilts in the least. I bought one and immediately returned it. The fabric was completely different than that used on actual kilts, military or civilian. They call it heavyweight but it's far less substantial than 13oz genuine kilting fabric. And the way that kilt was made didn't resemble kilts made by legitimate kiltmakers.

I think people wanting military style kilts would be far better off going with genuine British kilting cloth and having them made by actual kiltmakers.

My military-style kilt was made in Scotland from 18oz MOD style fabric. It looks and feels like the actual military kilts I've seen, handled, and owned.

Great...now you tell me. I was reading somewhere that the material used is indeed a faithful reproduction of the original (WWII I assume ) fabric, I don't know if they knew what they were talking about however. But the kilt seems like a reasonable deal considering how heavy it is and the fact that it appears to be all hand sewn, including even the label for some reason. I do somewhat regret getting involved with it now though. I'm not sure you are describing this kilt however, it almost feels like blanket material to me,much thicker than 16oz. tartan. It's advertised as 20 oz. but it does have a more wool felt like feel to me.Others on here have them and swear by them, so I don't know.