Roll pleat (‘military box pleat’)

[Nemuragh]

Are these kilts comfortable? Are they comfortable to sit in?

[Tobus]

Are these kilts comfortable? Are they comfortable to sit in?

Mine is just as comfortable as any other kilt. As for sitting, the only difference is that there's more layers of material under you*. I actually find it more comfortable due to more padding.

But, on the other hand, keeping MBPs orderly can be a bit of a challenge. You can't just sweep the pleats like a normal knife-pleated kilt. It takes a slightly different technique when sitting, in order to keep the pleats from getting folded the wrong way under your rear end. No biggie, though.

*edited to add: the kilt may or may not have more yardage of material, and thus may or may not have more layers of material in each pleat, depending on how they overlap. What I probably should have said is more folds. Since each pleat has a turn-back or outer rolled pleat, there are more folds of material in each pleat, and to me it feels more cushiony.

[Barb T]

The military box pleated kilts that I've seen that are actual military issue kilts have been in regimental weight tartan (18-21 oz), which is not only heavier weight but also has a kind of "blankety" hand. With the military box pleat, and the heavy, blankety tartan, they tend to be quite stiff. And someone more knowledgeable about military kilts will have to chime in on whether any regiments wear military box pleated kilts that aren't in regimental weight. You could, of course, have a military box pleated kilt made in something other than regimental weight, and it would be different than what I've described.

[Nemuragh]

The military box pleated kilts that I've seen that are actual military issue kilts have been in regimental weight tartan (18-21 oz), which is not only heavier weight but also has a kind of "blankety" hand. With the military box pleat, and the heavy, blankety tartan, they tend to be quite stiff. And someone more knowledgeable about military kilts will have to chime in on whether any regiments wear military box pleated kilts that aren't in regimental weight. You could, of course, have a military box pleated kilt made in something other than regimental weight, and it would be different than what I've described.

Thanks for that perspective. I asked about comfort because it occurred to me that this style might have evolved purely for appearance (while marching etc) and that any other qualities might have been incidental. I thought that perhaps comfort while seated might have no importance for the military.

I was contemplating having a kilt made in medium weight tartan but perhaps this wouldn’t work very well (or perhaps it might be better for civilian use).

[Barb T]

I was contemplating having a kilt made in medium weight tartan but perhaps this wouldn’t work very well (or perhaps it might be better for civilian use).

As Tobus points out, military box pleated kilts are a lot more difficult to keep looking nice, but regimental weight tartan is actually an advantage in this. The lighter weight tartan you've mentioned will wrinkle more easily, and military box pleats are much more of a challenge to press. I'm not sure you would be happy with a military box pleated kilt in medium weight tartan.

[Nemuragh]

As Tobus points out, military box pleated kilts are a lot more difficult to keep looking nice, but regimental weight tartan is actually an advantage in this. The lighter weight tartan you've mentioned will wrinkle more easily, and military box pleats are much more of a challenge to press. I'm not sure you would be happy with a military box pleated kilt in medium weight tartan.

Thanks for this. I wonder if sewing down the rolled section would add the stiffness desirable and help prevent wrinkling. However, I can’t see any kiltmaker taking that on. Apart from anything else, it would be a lot of extra sewing. (I reckon the only person who would undertake this would be me and I’ve barely sewn anything in my life!)

[Barb T]

You could do that, but it would look quite different from a kilt where the pleats are not stitched along the edges to hold the crease.

[Father Bill]

If it were sewn down, it would have little motion and might even rip if you moved too fast. The pleats are mechanically functional and serve a purpose while you're walking.

[Nemuragh]

You could do that, but it would look quite different from a kilt where the pleats are not stitched along the edges to hold the crease.

I was just referring to the roll, of course.

[Father Bill]

I was just referring to the roll, of course.

Well, of course you can give it a try and the results would be interesting to see in action, but I would think it would still hamper the mechanics of the thing. After a couple of hundred years, I think there's probably a reason it hasn't been done.