Special Weave... not so cheap, is it?

**Paul** · 11th October 09, 06:39 PM

Hi guys. I'm looking to have a MacInally tartan kilt in the near future.
As it is registered - although a far from popular tartan it needs to be ordered as "special weave".
It's pretty much costing me £250 for 8yards from the places I've looked. I've contacted the designer - Bruce McInally who had a very large run of it made for many of his family members. The price was a lot more be he got a much better value simply for ordering more.

Is there any way to have the tartan made for a lower price without ordering more?

**ForresterModern** · 11th October 09, 07:25 PM

Try DC Dalgleish mills. I know they are willing to do single runs of 8 yards or so without being exorbitant, and many of the kiltmakers on the forum have used them for "one-offs". I have some 16oz Allen 1996 tartan waiting to get to a kiltmakers table soon, and it is exceptional quality material, as fine as any I have felt, including HoE, Lochcarron, Strathmore, Marton Mills. Excellent selvedge as well---nigh on invisible.

**McMurdo** · 11th October 09, 07:38 PM

I would second the advice about DC Daglish. I went to Barb Tewksbury for my Royal Naval Association kilt. Barb went to DC Daglish for the wool, and they wove up an 8 yard piece. Even with the special weave and the shipping the kilt was to my mind affordable. Barb has told me that DC Daglish wool is her favourite to work with, and it is one of my favourite kilts, with a wonderful hand. Here is my review on the kilt:

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/1...853/index.html

**JolyStNicholas** · 12th October 09, 04:19 AM

[FONT="FixedsyI ran into the same situation when ordering my family tartan kilt from ScotWeb. The "Special weave/ order" thing cost me a lot more than I had planned on, but the end result was worth it all.s"][/FONT]

**ForresterModern** · 12th October 09, 06:42 AM

One other option, if you are willing to tolerate a machine sewn kilt or pay extra to an internet vendor for a handsewn: Several months ago I was investigating an unusual and rare tartan not on the standard rolls of any mills production inventory. Tartanweb at that time had their 8yd traditional heavyweight machine sewn kilt in any tartan (emphasis mine) for around $326 plus shipping. I contacted them by email asking if that included a special weave, 16oz Ancient Red Douglas. Their customer rep returned my email and said that even though it was a special weave they would honor that price, plus shipping (about $38US). I ordered it, and have been waiting for it to arrive since mid May, knowing that the special weave was likely to delay the process by 3-4 months. You can also pay extra for a handsewn deluxe 8yd as well.

Tartanweb, and their sister site scottishkilts, have since raised their prices across the board, some more than others, but Tartanweb still lists their Standard machine sewn 8yd kilt in any tartan at around $388US (Scottishkilts is more like $406) plus shipping. You would have to contact them directly to see if they would honor this price for YOUR special weave, but if so make sure you get it in writing. Good deal in my book. I have two other Scottishkilts/Tartanweb machine sewn kilts and they fit great and are well made, as best I can tell, similar to virtually all my other kilts.

Good Luck. PM me if you need more specific help. And, NO, I do not have stock or other personal investment in Tartanweb or Scottishkilts----this is my honest opinion of their offereings and workmanship.

Paul, obviously in your situation, being in the UK you have VAT to add into the equation which will significantly increas the price some.

**Ancienne Alliance** · 12th October 09, 07:17 AM

Be careful, for a 8 yard kilt, you only need 4 yards double width, as most fabric is usually sold.

Best,

Robert

**ForresterModern** · 12th October 09, 07:24 AM

Robert

Actually many of the specialty weavers doing special orders do so on single width looms as the set up time is diminished by only having to thread set half the width for a SW loom instead of a whole double wide loom. Then they just run the SW loom for 8 yards instead of the DW loom for 4 yards. I believe that is what makes it more cost efficient for them to do the small orders. For instance, my Dalgleish Allen 1996 was 8m single width.

jeff

**ForresterModern** · 12th October 09, 07:43 AM

Another alternative would be to contact Fraser&Kirkbright as they will also do some small runs, although their twill tartan is made from merino wool and has a lighter feel, softer drape and slightly fuzzier finish than standard worsted tartan, and does not quite take as crisp a pleat as worsted, but is still great for kilts. A lot of folks have kilts from their tartan and are very pleased.