Strap hole? What strap hole?

**Tony Robbie** · 12th July 18, 06:01 AM

Hi everyone. I was going so well. It's the most relaxing thing I've ever done. But as I reached the end of the first half of the cloth (it was a double width) and I turned the page of Barb's book to find out how to join them, I saw the section on the buttonhole that needs to be stitched into the second pleat. Urgh! Please tell me I don't have to unpick the pleats - I've already done 15!
If anyone can help, I'd really appreciate it. I've not embarked on anything like this before; I'm really loving it.
Cheers, T.

**McMurdo** · 12th July 18, 07:04 AM

I'm just guessing here and no tea yet this morning but could you do an internal strap like Matt Newsome used to put on his 4 yard box pleated kilts?

**Father Bill** · 12th July 18, 07:29 AM

Originally Posted by McMurdo

I'm just guessing here and no tea yet this morning but could you do an internal strap like Matt Newsome used to put on his 4 yard box pleated kilts?

I should let him speak for himself, but I think Steve Ashton at Freedom Kilts does the same thing with all of his.

**The Wizard of BC** · 12th July 18, 08:48 AM

That is true.

One of the hallmarks of the Contemporary Style Kilt is Durability.

The left strap hole has always been a weak point in a kilt. So I began to elliminate the left strap hole about 6-7 years ago.
It began with Freedom Kilts getting the contract as Regimental kiltmaker to The Canadian Scottish Regt.

They keep kilts in stores for new troops So I needed a way to be able to re-size a kilt quickly. elliminating the left strap hole is how we did it. If the unit does not have a kilt in the size neede they can issue the next larger size and the troop can come to my shop and have the kilt re-sized in under 10 min because we do not have to contend with the left strap hole.

This has now become standard on Freedom kilts. The customer has te choice of strap hole or not and 99% of the time chooses no hole.

Doing away with the left strap hole elliminated the weak point, and as an added bonus, allows us to extend the stabilizer strip all the way to the apron outer edges. The overall durability has increased measurably.

**BertMcG** · 12th July 18, 10:19 AM

I’ve done the exact same thing, I just opened up the pleat where the hole was supposed to be and reinforced it top and bottom, you will be doing more of that later anyway. I must say since then I’ve tried Steve’s method with the strap and buckle on the inside and quite like it. I thought it might be uncomfortable but no problems

**Taskr** · 12th July 18, 11:06 AM

I'll pile on; the inside strap is great!

**Tony Robbie** · 12th July 18, 04:38 PM

My first thought was to open it up as you suggested, BertMcG, but an internal strap seems an interesting and popular suggestion (Is that what Freedom Kilts use instead, Wizard?). Please keep in mind I'm embarking on this with no previous skills; is it a simple operation, or am I going to end up using language I'll regret? I'll need instructions - and prayer!
Thanks
T

**Taskr** · 13th July 18, 10:07 AM

I'm sure the Wizard can be specific, but basically the buckle gets attached to the top right (when facing) of the inner apron [secured back from the edge so that the buckle rests just before the edge], and the strap is attached inside just a bit back from where the strap hole would be.

I'll be using this method for my next XKilt instead of Velcro

**The Wizard of BC** · 13th July 18, 04:22 PM

If you wish to eliminate the weak point of the strap hole you simply make the kilt without a hole. Each pleat is sewn the same as all the others.

Then after you have installed the stabilizer - interfacing - and the liner you attach the right or over-apron buckle and strap as normal.

Then put a buckle on the edge of the under-apron in a similar method as you did the right one.

Slide a strap into the under-apron strap. Then fasten the right strap.
Hold the kilt as it would be when worn and this will give you the location of the end of the inside or under apron strap.
This insures that the location is correct because the outer apron is outside of the under-apron so is going around a larger outer circumference.

Mark the end of the under-apron strap on the liner with chalk.

Then sew the strap to the chalk mark completely through the liner and the interfacing anchoring it to the stabilizer. Very similar to how you would sew the left buckle on an Iconic kilt.

Really, the only issues you need to keep an eye on are the vertical alignment of the left strap when you sew it on. You want to make sure the the strap and the buckle are aligned.