Tapering pleats

[macleaniii]

Hello! New member posting for the first time. I'm a handweaver tackling my first kilt.

After about 4 redos of doing the pleats I finally got everything situated with the exception of the waist. My hip pleat split is 20" and waist is 16". After attempting to taper the waist I got it right on the mark; however, my hip measurement shrunk an inch.

Is there any trick to maintaining the hip pleat split when tapering the pleats at the waist? Any advice would greatly appreciated!

[AdamBogle]

Welcome aboard! I envy the skills so many here have to aid with weaving and sewing and Im sure someone will be able to help soon!

[Taskr]

I've only practiced stitched on tartan pieces thus far, but I had a similar problem when construction my XKilt. I had not properly and consistently marked and pinned the taper from fell to waist and therefore lost the original measurements that were applied for the hip. Are you marking and pinning? machine or hand stitching?

[The Wizard of BC]

One of the skills a kiltmaker must learn is accurate measuring. For example - Lets say that you plan to have 36 pleats in your kilt. If each pleat is off in measuring by only 1/32 of an inch (or one twill line) your total will be off 1 full inch.

So, many of us always have a tape measure or ruler close at hand while pleating. Barb and I have a tape measure around our necks constantly. We check and double check the width of each and every pleat at the hips and again at the waist. We check the pleat width as we pin, as we sew, and again after the stitching is done to insure that our width has not varied. We both will rip out a pleat and re-do it if our finished width in not within our own personal tolerance. (My personal tolerance is 1/32 of an inch or one twill line.)

Now, in relation to your measurements. Splits are most often listed as four numbers i.e. 20/19 21/22 The first two numbers refer to a total waist circumference of 38, split with the apron 20 wide and the pleated part 19. The second number is the hip circumference with a total of 43. 21 in the apron and 22 the pleated part.

So, if the rear hip split is 22 and your kilt has 22 pleats - then each pleat would be 1 wide at the hips.

Those same 22 pleats would then taper to 19 wide in total or 19/22=.86. Each pleat is 1 at the hips and tapers down to .86 at the waist.

The rise above the waist would continue .86 wide to the top of the kilt.

Each kiltmaker develops their own way of insuring accurate measurements. Some like to pin or baste their pleats. Some draw lines.
Correct size of the finished garment should be the goal.

Does this help?

[macleaniii]

One of the skills a kiltmaker must learn is accurate measuring. For example - Lets say that you plan to have 36 pleats in your kilt. If each pleat is off in measuring by only 1/32 of an inch (or one twill line) your total will be off 1 full inch.

So, many of us always have a tape measure or ruler close at hand while pleating. Barb and I have a tape measure around our necks constantly. We check and double check the width of each and every pleat at the hips and again at the waist. We check the pleat width as we pin, as we sew, and again after the stitching is done to insure that our width has not varied. We both will rip out a pleat and re-do it if our finished width in not within our own personal tolerance. (My personal tolerance is 1/32 of an inch or one twill line.)

Now, in relation to your measurements. Splits are most often listed as four numbers i.e. 20/19 21/22 The first two numbers refer to a total waist circumference of 38, split with the apron 20 wide and the pleated part 19. The second number is the hip circumference with a total of 43. 21 in the apron and 22 the pleated part.

So, if the rear hip split is 22 and your kilt has 22 pleats - then each pleat would be 1 wide at the hips.

Those same 22 pleats would then taper to 19 wide in total or 19/22=.86. Each pleat is 1 at the hips and tapers down to .86 at the waist.

The rise above the waist would continue .86 wide to the top of the kilt.

Each kiltmaker develops their own way of insuring accurate measurements. Some like to pin or baste their pleats. Some draw lines.
Correct size of the finished garment should be the goal.

Does this help?

Yes it does! Thank you!

I should've specified the full splits in my original post (18/16 and 19/20). Overall, I'd say I grasp pleat sizing; however, I wove my own Maclean of Duart heavyweight tartan fabric which brought tons of calculations and frustration (as I am pleating to the sett).

I was mainly confused at the execution of tapering the pleats at the waist. I redid the waist this morning and found that previously I was actually altering the pleats at the waist. This subsequently changed the pleat sizing at the hip. I fixed it by lifting the adjacent pleat up and pinning the previous pleat at the correct width. Also...you can never have enough pins!

Please note...these pleats are still a work in progress.
IMG_0454.JPG-1 copy.jpg

[The Wizard of BC]

One thing that I do that makes Barb cringe is to mark and press my pleats before I stitch.

I also use my Engineer's method of determining pleat layout.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=82677

Here is a kilt pressed, basted and ready to start sewing the pleat tapers.

Please notice that a strip of flat fabric laid on top of the pleats aligns perfectly.



This method works for me as I stitch left handed. The fabric is in front of me on my table and the pleat I am working on is easily accessible.



Notice that I use an English style ring thimble.



I also find that using am marking jig sometimes comes in handy.



My reasoning for basting or pinning my pleats before sewing is to insure that the non-stitched portions stay straight and parallel.

If I am pleating to Sett i will keep my layout strip handy and lay it on the pleats at the bottom of the Fell are to insure I keep the proper size at the hips.

[macleaniii]

Thanks! These pictures help immensely! Love the idea if the jig.