Tapers and aprons

[maichrcol]

I don't know how long this post will take to actually post since I'm new but here goes.

Does anyone have a picture of a taper? Where does it go? Where are you tapering? I'm all boxed up and no idea where to taper.

Now about the apron... over apron, under apron? I get it that one goes over the other like a wrap around skirt and I see the instructions about the over apron and the 10 inches and A shaping but where did these measurments on the Appendix come from? Picture attached.

Highland Fling Weekend 08/04-05/2018 at the Sterling Renaissance - hopefully I'll get this done for that!

xkiltclarificationapron.jpg

Thank you.
Maia

[Pleater]

The aprons are widened out from the waist measurement to allow the kilt to cover the body smoothly over the hipbones, and then they widen towards the lower edge to avoid the appearance or illusion of narrowing - I am pretty sure that there are quite a few images and descriptions of tapering of aprons already on the forum.

Anne the Pleater

[maichrcol]

The aprons are widened out from the waist measurement to allow the kilt to cover the body smoothly over the hipbones, and then they widen towards the lower edge to avoid the appearance or illusion of narrowing - I am pretty sure that there are quite a few images and descriptions of tapering of aprons already on the forum.

Anne the Pleater

I searched taper, pleats and tapered pleats. Nothing useful.
Guess I'll just make it up.

[Pleater]

I am not sure how good the search feature is - but there should be something in the DIY and professional kilt making sections of the forum.

Anne the Pleater

[The Wizard of BC]

From a kiltmaker's standpoint the illustration used is one of the worst available.

All of the kilts designed in the Iconic style are designed to be worn with the top straps and buckles cinched into the anatomical waist or right under the ribs.

The total length of the kilt from the top of the waistband to the bottom selvedge edge is the total of two lengths. The Drop and the Rise. The Drop is measured from the bottom of the selvedge edge up, to the center of the top strap. Above the top strap is the Rise.

The Rise is above the anatomical waist. In the front the top of a kilt in the Iconic style will be between three and four finger widths below the bottom of the breastbone.

From the center of the upper buckle down to the hip line is called the Fell Area. The bottom of the Fell should be at the widest part of the hips or butt. This is where the pleats are sewn down and tapered. This is where all the shaping of a kit takes place.

The aprons taper from the waist outward to the hips and then down to the selvedge edge in a gentle "S" curve. The Rise is not tapered but goes straight up.



The width of the apron at the waist in the front flat part is slightly greater than in the back pleated part. (Or slightly more than 1/2 of the waist circumference.)

The width of the apron at the hips in the front flat part is slightly less than the back pleated part. (Or slightly less than 1/2 of the hip circumference.)

This is called "The Splits"

Here is a Kilt Doll showing the different parts of an Iconic Kilt.

Notice please that the sides of the apron fall straight down along what would be the side seam of a pair of trousers.
The apron also falls straight down from the belly and does not go under the belly.



And here is a kilt apron on the layout table.

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