Yet another pleating question

[MDR-V300]

Now, I've been informed that the main difference between a 4 and an 8-yard kilt is the depth of the pleats. How deep are we talking here? If my training in fractions is any help, it would seem that they need to be 3 times as deep to eat up that much fabric. Are there any other points that need to be considered when making an 8-yarder that differ from a 4-yard?

And why does my foot hurt?

Derek

[bubba]

It depends on the size of the pattern and the number of pleats you want and the width of the pleats.

[Canuck]

Now, I've been informed that the main difference between a 4 and an 8-yard kilt is the depth of the pleats. How deep are we talking here? If my training in fractions is any help, it would seem that they need to be 3 times as deep to eat up that much fabric. Are there any other points that need to be considered when making an 8-yarder that differ from a 4-yard?

And why does my foot hurt?

Derek

In most cases an 8 yard kilt is hand sewn the depth of the pleat is about the same a full sett if the repeat is 14-16cm and double if it's a 7.5cm repeat.
more later time for bed.

[RockyR]

The size of the kilt (4 or 8 yard... or 6 or 11 or whatever lenth needed) depends on 3 things:

1 Width of each pleat. The smaller the pleat, the more pleats are needed to cover the same area.

2 The size of the repeat. I find that most of the tartans we deal with have a 7 inch repeat (give or take an inch). However, some have a 4 inch repeat and some have a 11 inch repeat. The biger the repeat pattern chosen by the kilt maker (they can use every repeat or every OTHER repeat), the more material needed.

3 The WAIST / HIPS of the wearer! This one is often overelooked. If there's a guy with a 34" waist and his friend with a 54" waist wants the SAME style kilt with the SAME pleat depth and SAME pleat width, then the guy with the 54" waist WILL GET a kilt with more yardage. This is the reason that there's often a "tax" for bigger sizes. They take more material (this stuff ain't cheap) and they take longer to make.

Be wary when someone says that they make an "8 yard kilt". It probably isn't exactly 8 yards. That's not to say it isn't a good quality kilt, just the use of the term "8 yards" may be a bit misleading. I find that I make many 6 yard 7 yard or 9 yard kilts... so I never tell people before hand how many yards go into it. If they want to know after I'm done "doing the math" to figure out how much yardage to use, I'll gladly tell them.

Footnote: This post isn't meant to "slam" any kiltmakers... just reasons for why we (Kelly and I) do things the way we do.

[MDR-V300]

Thanks for taking the time ot respond to my questions. I've never considered the numbers 4 or 8 to mean anything other than two wide ranges of sizes. It's also my understanding that 8-yard [and up] kilts generally have their pleats loose all the way up to the waistband. Is this set-up more of a hassle for sitting down?

[Jimmy Carbomb]

It's also my understanding that 8-yard [and up] kilts generally have their pleats loose all the way up to the waistband. Is this set-up more of a hassle for sitting down?

That's actually bass-ackwards.

The "casuals" often have the pleats loose all the way to the waistband. Naturally, some kilt makers will sew-down about 4"-8" for the hip fit, but the majority do not.

Likewise on the "heavier" kilts with more fabric, the majority are sewn the same distance down for the hips. It actually helps the kilt to stay up without sloping. I'm sure there are kiltmakers that will not sew-down the pleats, or "hidden-stitch" the pleats... which would be a terrible thing to handle when sitting down!

REALLY take a look at the websites, or even call the companies to see what their's are like. It's worth the time to avoid any problems.

[MDR-V300]

Interesting.
I followed the advice at http://users.tinyonline.co.uk/chegc/kiltsite/page2.htm for a casual kilt, and it had me sew down the pleats to the hipline. I'm glad that it's not some kilt faux-pas to do this on heavier kilts, because --as you said-- it REALLY helps the thing stay up comfortably. I don't know what I'd do without it. It also clears up the confusion I had as to how I'd achieve a taper with only one secure band on the whole garment.

[Hamish]

For what it is worth: every one of my 40 kilts (whether, traditional, contemporary, casual or whatever) has the pleats sewn in from the waistband to the hip. That is the tapering of the garment, allowing for the difference in waist and hip measurements! I must to say that I have yet to see a kilt where this is not done. :o

[Jimmy Carbomb]

I must to say that I have yet to see a kilt where this is not done. :o

Ham... it's pretty common on casuals in the States. I'm guessing that the makers find it more "flexible" in the hang, if there's nothing to bind-up in the hips. Simply taper at the waistband, then let the pleats "do their thing".

I know in designing the USAK Philabegs, that the sewing-down of the hips not only kept the thing looking a little more "authentic" but it tended to make the pleats "keep their place" and not curl out.

Hopefully, those that make the kilts without the sewn-down hips will educate the group?!

That includes the kilt companies that haven't posted as of yet but are browsing.
"Wink, wink, nudge, nudge"

[Hamish]

I must to say that I have yet to see a kilt where this is not done. :o

Ham... it's pretty common on casuals in the States. I'm guessing that the makers find it more "flexible" in the hang, if there's nothing to bind-up in the hips. Simply taper at the waistband, then let the pleats "do their thing".

Well, that IS news to me Jimmy. On the other hand, I have no experience of Tartan casuals from the USA. My thoughts were taken with the North American casuals that I have in my wardrobe: Utilikilts, Amerikilts and a Savannah Kilt - all of which are stitched down to the hipline (the first two, of course, also have stitching all the way down, to hold the pleats in place).

My British-made Tartan casuals are, indeed, stitched to the hipline - all of them.

Thank you for enlightening me, Jimmy.