A Great Kilt or Belted Plaid

[Scottish Chi]

I just received a 6yd 60 inch wide medium weight wool blend fabric for use as a Great Kilt and have a question. On a few websites that sell Great Kilts it appeared that the cost was quite a bit more than tartan by the yard. In what way is the fabric prepared to be used as a Great Kilt that would justify such an increase in cost? Of course there was an additional charge to tack down the pleats if that was desired. That is something I was considering doing in the future. However, other than possibly a hem or fringed edges what needs to be done?

For just a little over $30 this should be fun.

Cheers! Bill

[Caradoc]

In what way is the fabric prepared to be used as a Great Kilt that would justify such an increase in cost?

Maybe they stitch the unselvedged "cut" edges on the short sides. Other than that, I can't think what they might be doing, since the selvedge covers the long sides.

Since I generally camp in mine, I'm against stitching the pleats down. It renders the garment less useful under certain conditions (like folding it in half twice on the long edge and using it as a blanket.)

[davedove]

Unless they're using single width cloth and sewing it together to make the double width., I can't imagine why it should be significantly more expensive. If they sew in the pleats or something like that, I can see some extra cost, but that's it.

My guess is they're just using the name to make the uninformed pay more for getting a finished great kilt. Those of us who know better could just buy the cloth and make our own.

[MacWage]

It all depends on the type of fabric. Wool varies from $5/yard to $100/yard depending on a number of factors. The wool used in most "traditional" kilts is typically $50-80/yard depending on source and wholesale vs. retail. The cost of wool has also gone up. The reenactement store I have bought most of my wool from has increased their prices from $5.99/yard to usually $9.99/yard for basic wool (more for "specialty" wool) because of increased wholesale cost.

Wool blends are often cheaper than 100% wool as well.

Most reputible Belted plaid kits are expensive because of the expense of the material inside. Others, however, are rip offs.

In short, it pays to go to a reputible source, like Celtic Croft or the Tartan Museum.

By the way, recently I bought some clearance fabric for a belted plaid at $1/yard, but it is acrylic and ight not even be washable. For me its a "disposable belted plaid."

[Pleater]

You could try putting loops on the inside of the fabric where you want to pleat it.

Thread a long cord through the loops and tie it within the length to the first and (temporarily) to the last loop separated by about three times the length of cord you want the drawn in length to be. That is, for each foot of pleats put in one yard of cord.

To draw the pleats in pull a loop of cord back through the first fixed loop and then draw the cord lying between the first and second fixed loops through it. Draw the cord lying between the second and third fixed loops through the loop you just made, and so on across the pleats. Pass the end of the cord through the last loop to fix it.

After a few goes you learn what size of loops to make to get an even distribution of fabric, and if you need to adjust the cord at the last fixed loop for a perfect result.

I must confess to having done this only with curtains, but it works every time, you can quickly release the last loop and have the fabric lay flat - I think that for most great kilts the 2/3rds reduction should work out about right.

If you tie the ends of the cord around your waist you then have the fabric under control to preen as you like. You can draw the folds around to the right or divide them fron the centre back in Kinguisse style. I think you would make the centre loop through two fixed loops for a Kinguisse style, so creating a box pleat.

With a bit of extra jigging you could make reverse Kinguisse, by fixing the cord at the centre back and looping left and right from there.

You might like to tie a ring or leather loop on one end of the cord, or up against the first fixed loop so you can tie a quick release knot through it or use it to hang up the kilt for pleating off the ground, or fit a pocket on the loop for hiding away your modern items but still have them to hand.

Wrap your belt around and you're good to go.

[way2fractious]

To draw the pleats in pull a loop of cord back through the first fixed loop and then draw the cord lying between the first and second fixed loops through it. Draw the cord lying between the second and third fixed loops through the loop you just made, and so on across the pleats. Pass the end of the cord through the last loop to fix it.

I tried to follow along and visualize the process here. Since curtains and I haven't met yet, I had to try something else. The closest I could get was how a construction worker "braids" a long extension cord to keep it from tangling, with the inclusion of one of these "belt loops" between each "braid." Now I have to go try it for real.

[jjoseph]

I tried to follow along and visualize the process here. Since curtains and I haven't met yet, I had to try something else. The closest I could get was how a construction worker "braids" a long extension cord to keep it from tangling, with the inclusion of one of these "belt loops" between each "braid." Now I have to go try it for real.

It's a chain stitch in crochet.

[Pleater]

It's a chain stitch in crochet.

I was really trying not to write 'crochet' - but yes that is exactly what it is - it is used to control the warp threads after they are laid out until they can be wound onto the loom, and the Navaho use it to create a multiple thread yarn from a single spun thread.

[MacWage]

For more info on the historical use of draw cords on belted plaids:

http://albanach.org/drawstring.htm

It is ALWAYS wise to really look at old portraits VERY CAREFULLY, as it is truly amazing as what may be found.

[Scottish Chi]

Thanks for the great information!

Caradoc - good point about not stitching in the pleats. I think I will leave that alone especially since Pleater has revealed a great alternative. I had a hard time at first visuallizing the proceedure until way2fractious and jjoseph posted.

This team approach just goes to illustrate again the collective power of XMarks. Thanks.

I had a few minutes to try pleating the fabric on the floor and belting in on by following some pictures on a website. I think it will take a few more tries to get the hang of it.

Cheers! Bill