Interesting kilt jacket pattern

[AJBryant]

I was doing some exploring trying to find a pattern for an Argyll jacket, and ran across this:



The "Monte Carlo" would seem to just be a simple kilt jacket -- sans funky cuffs. Then there's the "Neglige" (!), which looks like an Ike jacket of sorts.

But look at the guy on the left -- the "Dresden." It's like a double-breasted version of the regimental doublet.

I must have one.

Anyway, here's the "Highland doublet" pattern:



And if you want kilting information, try this (and note the variations on box pleating!!!):



For those who want to explore more, here is the page. It's mostly Victoriana.

Tony

[Lorna]

Wowee! Nice find. Thank you for sharing.

[Grizzled Ian]

Is that variation on box pleating, diagram 88, what Matt strenuously, but with sound reasoning, resists calling (hushed tones) military box pleating? In general, might he refer to it as the basis for a "Box pleated kilt of >4 yards"?

[Kiltboy]

Ah, the Costumer's Manifesto. I get lost on that website everytime I visit.

[TheOfficialBren]

Is that variation on box pleating, diagram 88, what Matt strenuously, but with sound reasoning, resists calling (hushed tones) military box pleating? In general, might he refer to it as the basis for a "Box pleated kilt of >4 yards"?

Yes.

[Downunder Kilt]

Here is a diagram that has been knocking about the forum for a few years that shows a number of the various styles of kilt pleating

[OC Richard]

Very interesting! The "Dresden" is the standard "doublet" which was by far the most common style of dressy kilt jacket from the mid-19th century up through the early years of the 20th century, when a new suite of formal kilt jackets (Prince Charlie Coatee, Montrose Doublet, Kenmore Doublet) pushed it out of favour. And now with several civilian dress doublets in competition it needed a more specific name which is "Regulation Doublet".

These photos of the old doublet, dressed up with piping, show the cut very clearly





Here's another good view of it, a plain one

[creagdhubh]

Very interesting! The "Dresden" is the standard "doublet" which was by far the most common style of dressy kilt jacket from the mid-19th century up through the early years of the 20th century, when a new suite of formal kilt jackets (Prince Charlie Coatee, Montrose Doublet, Kenmore Doublet) pushed it out of favour. And now with several civilian dress doublets in competition it needed a more specific name which is "Regulation Doublet".

These photos of the old doublet, dressed up with piping, show the cut very clearly





Here's another good view of it, a plain one

I like it!

[Grizzled Ian]

OC Richard,
I really appreciate your sharing with the membership the fruits of your collection of these old images, whether posed photographs like these, or the old catalogues, and sharing the knowledge that you have gained about all sorts of features of highland dress.

Downunder Kilt,
does the diagram that you included appear on the Lady Chrystel's website? When I asked her, she said that she does not make kilts in either of the rolled styles depicted. I am looking forward to the day when I can send her material to make me a double-box pleat kilt, though.

But the two rolled styles don't give a really good indication of the depth of pleat possible, because they only show a single pleat. Until I have a go at making a kilt myself, I can only suspect that variation in the depth of the back pleat is one of the variables to be considered in solving the pleat to sett and pleat to stripe problems posed in tartans with different width setts. Anyway, the second rolled style is the same arrangement as Diagram 88 in the OP, except that it goes in the opposite direction and the back pleat is not as deep. The first rolled style is not depicted in AJB's OP.