Kilt and Trews Jacket for Reeling/balls

[Scot ish]

Morning all,

I'm new here but have enjoyed visiting the forum for a while as a guest. I've got a tailoring question now though so I thought I would sign up to ask your advice.

I'm looking to get a jacket or doublet tailored with a few specific requirements. I'd like a jacket (probably in a muted velvet colour) with a cut that is free enough that it can be worn reeling but also smart enough that it can be worn to white tie events like the royal caledonian ball. Finally, and I'm not sure if this is possible, I'd like to be able to be worn either with trews (which I own) or a kilt (which I will get made).

I have done a lot of trawling round the web and seen many things that are close (balmoral/rothesay doublet or regulation) but none quite hit the mark. If anyone here knows of any photos or tailors in the UK that I should ask I'd be grateful.

Finally would appreciate your thoughts on jackets/doublets that button all the way up to the neck (hiding the bow tie and shirt) or, like the balmoral, ones that show the bow tie; both in terms of comfort and smartness.

Many thanks in advance for the advice!

Scot-ish

[JohntheBiker]

Scot ish, you seem to be making a lot of demands on a single jacket. The simplest answer, of course, for formal kilt or trews is the prince charlie. It can be as formal as you need, including the Royal Caledonian Ball.

If you look good in trews (those of us with girth absolutely don't), then you will look good in whatever you choose, including doublets. With this choice, you definitely want to consider lace if you want a really formal look.

For most of us, a PC and a tweed Argyll will get us pretty much any where we want or need to go. Good luck with your search.

[Jock Scot]

One needs to be honest with oneself even with properly cut trews. If you are even slightly broad about the beam you need to be careful, otherwise the dreaded "eggcup" look-------think large egg in small eggcup-----will occur. Bespoke tailoring, not made to measure, may help but even the best tailor can only do so much to flatter ones figure. A PC does look very smart with trews, as is does resemble some styles of the British Army mess jacket a wee bit. Out of interest, for more casual events a well fitting pullover worn with trews, can look very smart too.

[Nathan]

I quite like my Balmoral doublet and I think one could certainly reel in it. I've worn it to the Toronto St. Andrews ball and danced all night. I like that I have the option to wear a bow tie or a jabot and feel the open collar gives the jacket a civilian look. Certainly, the Charlie or Kenmore would fit the bill as well. It's really your call. If it fits correctly, the doublet should handle kilt, trews and dancing just fine. If it's velvet, expect to perspire more whilst dancing in a heated ballroom.

[Livonian]

One needs to be honest with oneself even with properly cut trews. If you are even slightly broad about the beam you need to be careful, otherwise the dreaded "eggcup" look-------think large egg in small eggcup-----will occur. Bespoke tailoring, not made to measure, may help but even the best tailor can only do so much to flatter ones figure. A PC does look very smart with trews, as is does resemble some styles of the British Army mess jacket a wee bit. Out of interest, for more casual events a well fitting pullover worn with trews, can look very smart too.

I'm inclined to think that a high enough rise (at least to the "equator") and a properly cut taper (meaning one which is straight with clean drape as opposed to one which follows the contour of the rump) could negate the "eggcup" look... I've noticed that this very combination of high rise and good drape does wonders to reduce the visual impression of my own weight whilst in trousers. That said, if memory serves, there is no drape to trews, which are typically cut unbelievably slim. The creation described above would therefore be trousers with some distinct Scottish inspiration.

As another thought, a doublet or jacket which covers the waist of the trousers plus even a wee bit below can also create the illusion of a more impressive figure. Something like a Balmoral in a cloth comfortable for reeling may be a good solution. One could simply wear the front open with a vest for reeling, or closed with no vest otherwise.

[Scot ish]

Many thanks all for the sage advice. I am lucky enough to be young and relatively trim at the moment so I'm not so worried about the egg cup look. the trews aren't hugely slim anyway but are cut to british military standards and height so coupling a jacket and kilt belt would probably see me through.

I'm really torn between a wool jacket in regulation or charlie style and something a bit more unique in velvet. If I'm only going to have one made it might as well look special... on the flip side if I'll be dancing in it a lot I'm aware velvet might cook me a little quicker. Then again, you warm up very fast in a prince charlie if its a big ball anyway.

I was thinking of maybe getting a balmoral with buttons that could be removed for thin gold/silver chain or braid as I've seen done elsewhere to hold the two sides of the jacket together for a bit more freedom dancing. Danger of upsetting the traditionalists?

All experiences and advice so far and yet to be given hugely appreciated.

Scot ish

[IsaacW]

I am a big fan of my regulation doublet. It is a sharp look that goes well with trews and kilt. It is also a bit more comfortable and forgiving for a full belly after dinner or while dancing. My only concern is that a doublet like this is really only good with a more formal look and I would not use it for daywear or casual settings.

Here is my doublet shortly after I got it this last year (pardon the size of the bowtie, I have gotten better at fitting and tying it since)...

[MacLowlife]

In terms of smartness, the doublets that button all of the way up are very smart, indeed, but the laws of physics being what they are, you will always be more comfortable in a jacket - even a jacket and waistcoat- that is open at the front.

I have worn Montrose style doublets, in barathea and in velveteen. I have also worn a Government Issue wool piper's jacket. But lately, I prefer an open jacket with a silk waistcoat for formal wear. If I had unlimited funds, I would order either a regulation doublet or maybe an Argyll in velvet, with satin facings, like Isaac's. Black velvet with black satin ( or grosgrain) facings would be very smart, indeed.

You may not always be as svelte as you are now. Consider that most of your weight gain is likely to be around the middle. You may put on a little everywhere- the equivalent of a couple of thick shirts- but if you remind your tailor, he may be able to compromise between a perfect fit now and a still-comfortable one later in life. A close fitting waistcoat can disguise a slightly loose outer layer, especially one that doesn't actually close.

Between the far east cheapies on That Internet Auction Site and the stream of garments older men have outgrown, you might be able to experiment a little before committing the sum most bespoke tailors will ask. I heartily recommend sowing a few wild oats before settling down. You may be surprised at how your tastes evolve.

[Roderick Powell]

With regard to tartan trews,the Trews were traditionally worn by Horde riding Officers. In our Balls in Southern England wearers ofTrews or Dinner dress Black tie suits would be one in fifty and would stick out like a sore thumb.However dress at a Cdaligh is
more relaxed and might be considered rather dashing....I chose to change the dress code by deliberately wearing a kilt as day wear for a casual occasion. The next year my friend also wore the Kilt and one of the female perfomers family ,both father and son turned up
immaculately dressed in matching kilts. Rather dapper. I feel that boys in kilts show good family discipline. These type of events ar casual and a form of do it yourself family entertainment. You can have many garments in your wardrobe. Please be careful when You wear them.
Please watch separate thread . Roderick