origin of the Prince Charlie?

[OC Richard]

As most people here know I'm always interested in the origins of things.

It's clear, in looking through vintage photos, that Highland Evening Dress underwent a thorough transformation in the early 20th century. In the latter half of the 19th century the standard Highland Evening jacket was the "doublet". This had many forms, but the basic thing was that it has the "Inverness flaps" or "skirts" all around the bottom. It usually, but not always, had "gauntlet" cuffs.

Then in Highland Dress catalogues in the 1920s a host of new Evening jacket styles appear.

Sometimes the fact that a jacket style is new is implied, other times clearly stated.

Here, in the Anderson catalogue from 1936, it is implied that the Coatee (Prince Charlie) is a trendy new style, suitable for young men, and definitely unsuited for older stout men. Anderson here claims to have recently invented the Kenmore Doublet.



Just yesterday I received a booklet I bought cheaply on Ebay

The Kilt
A Manual of Scottish National Dress
by
Loudon MacQueen Douglas FRSE FSA Scot
Edinburgh: Andrew Elliot 1914



In it is the following interesting passage concerning the "coatee" (what we today call the Prince Charlie)

"The Doublet.
There is considerable variety in the form of the doublet... it should have lapels, and gauntlets on the sleeves, silver buttons of the diamond shape being used throughout...

The Vest.
The vest should be of the same coloured cloth as the doublet, and should have lapels over the lower pockets. Coloured vests are quite in order, but it should be borne in mind that the scarlet vest is more worn by men-servants than by others, and as a rule should be discarded in ordinary evening dress.

The Coatee.
In place of the doublet some Scottish dresses (sic) have a coatee, or short coat, with abbreviated tails, like a morning coat. It is quite optional whether this is worn, or the doublet. Any form of the Coatee, however, is entirely modern, and, personally, I prefer the doublet. I understand that in some parts of the North of Scotland they are trying to introduce a coatee with longer coat tails, and if this succeeds I think it will be a pity, as the doublet strikes me as being much more complete and artistic than any form of the coatee that I have seen. It is, however, a matter for one's personal taste."

So we can go from the Coatee being regarded as suitable for young men in the 1930s to being "entirely modern" in 1914. What I still can't pin down is when it was invented, and by whom.

Here is the author, Loudon MacQueen Douglas, in his beloved doublet

[MacEanruig]

Interesting information, Richard. I would also be interested in how and why the PC came about.

[Finistere]

I to would be interested where and by whom the PC was invented and when it was brought into common use.

[Mike S]

It would seem to me that there must be a common link in evolution between the PC, the British officer's mess dress jacket, and the white tie and tails jacket sans the tails as evening dress.

[OC Richard]

The ironic thing is that coatees were worn by Highland soldiers from around 1800 to 1855, when they were replaced by doublets, but coatees seemingly didn't appear in civilian Highland Dress until the early years of the 20th century, a half-century after they disappeared from the army.

Why would some Highland outfitter or tailor suddenly, in 1905 or whenever it was, say "Hey! Soldiers used to wear coatees 50 years ago, wouldn't it be cool for civilians to start wearing them?"

Thing is, in The Highlanders of Scotland, which were painted in the 1860s, when coatees were only a decade in the past, one doesn't see them at all.

It would be like, today, some element of military dress that hadn't been worn since the 1960s suddenly appear in civilian dress.

[IsaacW]

Well put together! Origins and history are always interesting to me!

[Mike S]

I would say that the Napoleonic period to Crimean War style regimental coatees that you are referencing have a lot less in common stylistically to the PC than does the late 19th century onward mess dress jacket does however. I'd say that the Montrose is closer to the early nineteenth century regimental coatee.

Are you saying that you believe the coatee is an inspiration for the PC?

RE:

[Mike S]

Vs. Officer's Mess Dress jacket:

[Roderick Powell]

O.C,Richard Thanks for info. A change in fashion is often inspired By an old fashion.
I was interested in the position of the hem of the author's Kilt ,relative to his knees. The hem is lower than I would expect it
to be.
I still wear my hem to the top of the Knee cap.
Has the Kilt slipped before the Photograph was taken , or is this part of the Author' new fashion ?
I feel that the term which is often used is re writing the book.
Perhaps you would clarify what the book says regarding the correct wearing of the Kilt........ Roderick

[Roderick Powell]

O.C. Richard, Having drawn your attention to the authors Kilt, I have now studied the sketch in the 1936 Anderson Catalogue.
The kilt looks Slightly shorter. Say half a knee cap.
We are talking Artist's Licence.
Perhaps there are local variations. We are referring to Historical Gentleman's Wear in Scotland.
I will go back to my Archive of Photographs of The Royal Family in their Kilts in the !930's and Keep you posted.....Roderick.