Timeline of Evening Dress Jackets

[OC Richard]

A thread on the topic of Sheriffmuir jackets got me looking through my collection of vintage Highland Dress catalogues.

A rough timeline emerged, which might be of interest.

There is a pattern of new styles first being thought of as being for youths and/or young men, and later becoming accepted for gentlemen's attire.

The background is that in the 19th century men's Highland Dress was almost infinitely variable and the categories "day" and "evening" dress not having absolute demarcation.

By far the most popular jacket from c1850 until the early years of the 20th century was the Doublet. It usually had the same collar and lapels as ordinary jackets of the time, the distinctive feature being the "Inverness" skirts around the bottom.

Highland Evening Dress became much more simple, sleek, and uniform in the early years of the 20th century, with new styles emerging and only the Doublet (now often called the Standard Doublet to differentiate it from the various new doublets) a holdover from the 19th century.

The first new style to emerge was the Coatee or Prince Charlie Coatee, of which was written in 1914:

"In place of the doublet some Scottish dresses have a coatee, or short coat, with abbreviated tails, like a morning coat. It is quite optional whether this is worn, or the doublet. Any form of the Coatee, however, is entirely modern..."

A glance through eight vintage Highland Dress catalogues shows the following. First the firm, then the date as best as it can be inferred, then the styles shown and/or listed in the same order as the catalogue, along with any comments appearing in the catalogue:

R G Lawrie c1926
1) "doublet"
2) "coatee"

Fraser Ross c1930
1) "Prince Charlie coatee"
2) "Doublet"
3) "Dress Argyle" (sic)
4) "Montrose" "A favourite style for youths, men also show a preference for its smart appearance."

Paisleys pre-1936
1) "Montrose" "suitable for 7 to 17 years."
2) "Strathmore" (standard Doublet) "for men, and young men from 16 years."
3) "Prince Charlie Coatee" "for gentlemen."

Anderson 1936
1) "the Coatee" "specially suited for a young man or an older man of slim figure. It is definitely less suitable for the stouter figure."
2) "the Doublet" "Is less popular than it once was, but it is particularly suitable for older men."
3) "the Kenmore Doublet" "A style of coat we designed." (It's nice, and rare, to have such a clear origin for a Highland jacket style.)

Rowans 1938
1) black Argyll "boys 5 to 15"
2) "coat" (a single-breasted Montrose) "boys of all ages over 6 years"
3) "regulation doublet" "most popular"
4) "coatee" "favourite with the younger set"
5) "coat" (a single-breasted Montrose, this time shown on an adult man) "increasingly popular in recent years"

Paisleys 1939
1) "Prince Charlie Coatee" "correct dress for gentlemen's evening wear."
2) "Montrose" "suitable 7 to 17 years"
3) "Deeside Evening Outfit" "for men, and young men from 16 years." (this was called "Strathmore" in their earlier catalogue, the Standard Doublet by another name.)

Anderson post-1953
1) "the coatee" "most popular"
2) "standard doublet" "suits the older man"
3) "Kenmore Doublet" "another favoured style" "good lines without unnecessary embellishment."
4) (not pictured) "Rannoch Doublet" "a smart double-breasted design"
5) (not pictured) "Appin Jacket" "a neat, short coat usually worn belted."

Forsyth 1950s
1) "standard doublet"
2) "Morar doublet" (a jacket identical to the Kenmore is illustrated)
3) "Montrose doublet" (shown both single-breasted and double-breasted)

As you can see the Sheriffmuir does not appear.

[Father Bill]

Extremely useful, Richard. Thank you!

[FossilHunter]

Interesting. Where does the regulation doublet fit into all this?

When I google "standard doublet" I get military style piper doublets. Is the "standard" designation just and older term for the "regulation"?

[Hirsty]

Does anyone know when the Sherrifmuir doublet first appeared, my Googling isn't good enough to find any results? Thanks.

A wee anecdote regarding the Sherrifmuir - I do recall a rather crabbit auld chap in a Perth kilt shop denying all knowledge of this style of doublet. When I showed him a picture on my 'phone (I think he found the use of technology offensive) he said in a rather perturbed and unconvincing manner "I've never seen anything like that before! I wouldn't even know where to get a pattern for such a thing."
This led me to believe that he had seen it before but saw it as some modern monstrosity.
I went to another shop and had one tailor made. I love it. That shop, which is now a tattoo parlour, missed out on my business and once I find a highland outfitter that I am comfortable with I tend to be very loyal.
Anyway, long story short, it must be rather new fangled to get such a response.

[OC Richard]

Where does the regulation doublet fit into all this?

The first use I have to hand of the term "regulation doublet" is the Rowans 1938 catalogue.

Throughout the 2nd half of the 19th century and into the beginning of the 20th century it was simply called "the doublet" (there being no others to differentiate from).

When things like the Kenmore Doublet were invented the old doublet was then often called the "standard doublet".

I don't know where the term "regulation doublet" came from or why it stuck or what regulation was being referred to- it's a purely civilian style so it couldn't be military regulations.

In any case "regulation doublet" "standard doublet" "old doublet" and simply "doublet" all refer to the same thing.

Here's a page from the Anderson 1936 catalogue showing the fairly recently invented "coatee" and the quite recently invented Kenmore Doublet. Note the coatee (Prince Charlie) is more dressed-up than is usual today with jabot and tartan waistcoat. Also note that the coatee is shown in green and blue but not black.



And here is the "doublet" which we call "regulation doublet" nowadays, the standard 19th century Highland jacket. Note his shoes are not the Mary Jane style, but are slip-on shoes with no strap.



This photo is excellent in showing (L-R) the fully trimmed civilian doublet (there was a fad for such trim around 1900), a plain civilian doublet, and two military-style doublets. Also nice that the four sporrans show three different cantle construction methods. Too bad we can't see their footwear better. (The fellow far right is wearing his shells backwards.)

[FossilHunter]

The first use I have to hand of the term "regulation doublet" is the Rowans 1938 catalogue.

Throughout the 2nd half of the 19th century and into the beginning of the 20th century it was simply called "the doublet" (there being no others to differentiate from).

When things like the Kenmore Doublet were invented the old doublet was then often called the "standard doublet".

I don't know where the term "regulation doublet" came from or why it stuck or what regulation was being referred to- it's a purely civilian style so it couldn't be military regulations.

In any case "regulation doublet" "standard doublet" "old doublet" and simply "doublet" all refer to the same thing.

Here's a page from the Anderson 1936 catalogue showing the fairly recently invented "coatee" and the quite recently invented Kenmore Doublet. Note the coatee (Prince Charlie) is more dressed-up than is usual today with jabot and tartan waistcoat. Also note that the coatee is shown in green and blue but not black.



And here is the "doublet" which we call "regulation doublet" nowadays, the standard 19th century Highland jacket. Note his shoes are not the Mary Jane style, but are slip-on shoes with no strap.



This photo is excellent in showing (L-R) the fully trimmed civilian doublet (there was a fad for such trim around 1900), a plain civilian doublet, and two military-style doublets. Also nice that the four sporrans show three different cantle construction methods. Too bad we can't see their footwear better. (The fellow far right is wearing his shells backwards.)

That's great info Richard. I can't help but notice that the doublet wearing older gentleman in the ad has a light waistcoat. I wonder if it could be red.

It's a shame that the notched lapels have fallen out of favor. I much prefer them to peaked and it kind of relegates the reg. doublet to evening wear when it could give the argyle a run for it's money if they came in notched as well.

[OC Richard]

I can't help but notice that the doublet wearing older gentleman has a light waistcoat. I wonder if it could be red.

Could be red, buff, or yellow, long-popular waistcoat colours.

Here's a yellow (or perhaps buff) waistcoat with tweed Day Dress c1900



Scarlet waistcoats in the 1860s

[macmanjim]

What is the difference in terms who would wear what when between a doublet and class A honor guard jacket?

[Terry Searl]

Could be red, buff, or yellow, long-popular waistcoat colours.

Here's a yellow (or perhaps buff) waistcoat with tweed Day Dress c1900



Scarlet waistcoats in the 1860s

I have searched in vain at various tailors to have a waistcoat made in Mustard Yellow or even buff yellow ...but so far all I get is stares......none of the fabric samples come anywhere close to what I would like .......mind you I live on Vancouver Island on Canada's west coast so we aren't known as a world wide fashion center

[Jock Scot]

I have searched in vain at various tailors to have a waistcoat made in Mustard Yellow or even buff yellow ...but so far all I get is stares......none of the fabric samples come anywhere close to what I would like .......mind you I live on Vancouver Island on Canada's west coast so we aren't known as a world wide fashion center

Try google-ing " UK fox hunting attire" and you will find what you are looking for.