Black tie jacket ideas

[David Host]

Hello Xmarks!

It's been a while since my last post it seems, but I digress. I've been contemplating a black tie rig, and while I simply would love to get my hands on a black or red barathea Montrose doublet, I can't see myself investing in one anytime soon, plus it is much too formal for the kinds of events I can go to. For Saxon evening wear I love the relaxed lines of a midnight blue, shawl collared tuxedo. So I have been looking closely at the Brian Boru style jacket (really love the shawl collar and link front closure), but I hate the round Irish harp buttons. I would be replacing the buttons with either standard PC buttons or something like this.

What say the rabble?

[artificer]

I'm drawn to the shawl collar as well, although I'm most likely heading for a velvet Sheriffmuir.

The only issue I'd personally have with the square or diamond buttons is that they're a bit at-odds with the lovely soft curve of the shawl collar. Perhaps a different round button- there are some lovely Celtic Knot round buttons, or even a nice plain flat pewter button with a shank back.

ith:

[David Host]

Wonderful idea, Scott! Round buttons hadn't even crossed my mind. I think some round buttons with a celtic knot pattern would look spiffy indeed. Now, if only I could find a jacket in midnight blue

[Highlander31]

Wonderful idea, Scott! Round buttons hadn't even crossed my mind. I think some round buttons with a celtic knot pattern would look spiffy indeed. Now, if only I could find a jacket in midnight blue

Why not go bespoke? It isn't that much more in cost versus off-the-rack. You can have the material, color, and style buttons you want, and it is made to your measurements. Unless you're a perfect size, you will have to have a tailor fit the off-the-rack jacket, then the buttons will have to be replaced. It could end up costing almost as much as the initial cost of the bespoke jacket.

Just my two cents worth.

[David Host]

Why not go bespoke? It isn't that much more in cost versus off-the-rack. You can have the material, color, and style buttons you want, and it is made to your measurements. Unless you're a perfect size, you will have to have a tailor fit the off-the-rack jacket, then the buttons will have to be replaced. It could end up costing almost as much as the initial cost of the bespoke jacket.

Just my two cents worth.

The thought has crossed my mind. However, I think it can be done rather cheaply. I have a pretty averaged sized athletic body and a very good sense of fit. The jacket could be acquired for a few hundred dollars and the buttons can be bought for a fair price. I have wonderful old Korean lady who does all my tailoring for a very modest price and she does very good work.

Do you have any suggestions for made to measure jacket makers who are willing to do custom features? I assume you were implying made to measure rather than full on bespoke tailoring?

[cable scot]

I would talk to Rocky at USAK. He may be able to help you. Also talk to him about a doublet as well. I purchased a velvet sheriffmuir from him at an amazing price. Really give him a call or an Email.

[Highlander31]

The thought has crossed my mind. However, I think it can be done rather cheaply. I have a pretty averaged sized athletic body and a very good sense of fit. The jacket could be acquired for a few hundred dollars and the buttons can be bought for a fair price. I have wonderful old Korean lady who does all my tailoring for a very modest price and she does very good work.

Do you have any suggestions for made to measure jacket makers who are willing to do custom features? I assume you were implying made to measure rather than full on bespoke tailoring?

Yes, I was thinking made to measure. When I wrote that, I had just finished a conversation with a friend about bespoke jackets. My apologies for the confusion.

I would recommend Scotweb (they give a 10% discount to Xmarkers, just click on their ad at the top of the page), Rocky at USA Kilts, Keltoi Gaelic Clothing (also at the top of the page). I'm not sure if Freedom Kilts, or Stillwater Kilts carries the Irish jackets. They're all good companies and will take good care of you.

[Phil]

Wonderful idea, Scott! Round buttons hadn't even crossed my mind. I think some round buttons with a celtic knot pattern would look spiffy indeed. Now, if only I could find a jacket in midnight blue

You mean a bit like this -

round silver celtic knot buttons and midnight blue velvet. Fully bespoke of course and yours for a little over £1200!

[MacLowlife]

You might start with a shawl collared tailcoat. Working the link closure may be tricky, but not impossible. Thompson gives directions on converting a tailcoat to a PC, (in SO YOU'RE GOING TO WEAR THE KILT) but almost anyone can do it, if they see some good photos.

Depending on your size, you might find that Montrose for less than you fear. As has been observed, they tend to shrink in the closet and find their way into the marketplace. You might also find your alterations lady can make one easily. There is little need for internal structure because the doublet remains closed in most circumstances. It is not much more complicated than making a blouse with a lining.

[David Host]

When I get highland black tie rig in my budget, I'll give Rocky a call for sure. I did see a reasonably priced Montrose on Alexis Malcom's site that piques my interest as well.

Also, were I to get a Montrose with detachable jabot and cuffs, I would need a tunic shirt, no? Where would I get one?