Can Anyone ID this Victorian Kilt Jacket?

[keith_b]

I was wondering what style of jacket the gentleman second in from the right was wearing. Can anyone ID it? He's got the top button done up and the rest of the jacket is worn open with a waistcoat. I've seen similar kilt jackets in pictures from this period. I like it! I particularly like the "short" lapels, allowing you to button it fairly high-up. Wondering if it was possible to get one nowadays?

kilberrypipers.jpg

[piperdbh]

It looks to me like what we now call a Crail which has been made to button high-up. Anybody who can make a jacket could make one like it.

[Steve Ashton]

You have to remember that the jackets in this photo are from before the standardization of jackets that we have now. Each tailor made their own jacket in their own style.

While a jacket for wear with the kilt has been around since the late 1800's what we call the Argyle jacket today did not achieve its current form until the 1960's. The Argyle, Crail and Braemer started as names of standardized jackets from one single company that we now think of as universal. But this was not always so and definitely not at the time this photo was taken.

In fact the Argyle, Crail and Braemer are just the exact same mass produced jacket with a different treatment to the buttons on the cuff.

This image is from the catalog of Lochcarron showing the difference.





The jacket in the photo you refer to is one version of what is known as a cut-away.

[Downunder Kilt]

If you blow the photo up a bit, I think you will find that the piper to the subjects left and the one seated are also wearing 3 button jackets, although undone.

[keith_b]

I think you're right Downunder. Has the 3-button kilt jacket fallen out of favor? I don't know if I've seen one offered by today's current makers.

[keith_b]

I see that there are 'modern' three button jackets being offered, but none of them seem to button up as high as the jacket(s) in the picture.

[pbutts]

There is a jacket similar to this that has been commented on before in the Duke of Rothesay thread....
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...628#post776628

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...083#post780083

[The Wizard of BC]

The Three Button Jacket is alive and well.

[OC Richard]

I was wondering what style of jacket the gentleman second in from the right was wearing.

It's just an ordinary kilt jacket.

Thing is, styles have changed over the years as to how jacket lapels are made, how high they button, which buttons are buttoned and which are left unbuttoned. Kilt jackets tend to follow "Saxon" jackets in this regard, more or less.

It was very popular in the late 19th century for lapels to be shorter, that is, for jackets to button higher. It was also popular to button the top button only. Many jackets were "cut away" to some extent so that an inverted "V" was created, the jacket hanging open beneath the single buttoned button, in other words. Photos to come



Here the same high/small lapels can be seen on a different style of jacket, the style then simply called the "doublet" and now called the Regulation doublet

[cable scot]

The truth is that you can have anything made the way you want, out of what you want. It then becomes a question of how much are you willing to spend.