Doublets and Black Tie

[Sir Didymous]

The truth is that I have a fondness for doublets over all other types of kilt jackets. However, they seem to be (with the exception of the more eccentric kilties) reserved for the dressiest of occasions. My questions to the rabble are; are doublets considered acceptable for black tie and slightly less formal occasions? If so, how would one go about dressing them down?

I would think that the type of neckwear would be the best place to start dressing them down. I use a jabot for the one very formal dinner I attend each year, but would that be considered appropriate for a black tie occasion?

[Cygnus]

It really depends on the doublet in question. What kind of doublet do you have?

Some doublets can be worn with a black bow tie with little fuss (e.g., regulation doublets, "Balmoral" doublets, even Kenmore doublets).

Others (e.g., Sheriffmuir doublets, Montrose doublets) are a bit harder as they seem to be designed specifically with a jabot in mind, though I've seen them worn very well with a less formal riding stock instead.

This thread has some good discussion on the topic along with a very helpful image showing various options with a Sheriffmuir doublet that Matt Newsome was kind enough to provide.

[Father Bill]

I've worn a Sheriffmuir with my clerical collar and had many compliments.

[Sir Didymous]

I've found that clerical collars are very versatile that way.

[tpa]

Since I don't have a black bow tie, I've worn my montrose and jabot to several black tie events without getting kicked out or even dressed down!

[OC Richard]

Doublets were the standard Highland jacket for civilian wear from at least the mid-19th century up till new styles (Prince Charlie, Montrose, Kenmore, Sheriffmuir) were created in the 20th century.

Doublets were usually black, and worn for formal dress, but brown ones were sometimes seen. They of course had open lapels and were worn with shirt and tie.

Several of the neo-doublets (Montrose, Kenmore, Sheriffmuir) had standing collars and were usually worn with lace jabots, however being individually tailored you do see them sometimes made with open collars and lapels.

Nowadays you even see Evening doublets made in tweed, which I suppose makes them suitable for all occasions (or for none?)

Here are four doublets c1900 worn by four civilian pipers, L-R the full laced (braided) doublet which was quite popular at that time; a plain doublet; two military-style doublets with stand collar.



The plain doublet, it seems to me, would be fine for semi-formal occasions, worn with an ordinary shirt and tie like that.

EDIT: when I go back and look at a large number of photos from the late 19th century up till recently, I do see that the Doublet (what we now call the "regulation doublet") is very rarely worn in anything other than formal situations. The Argyll style was nearly universally worn, either in tweed, brown, grey, or black, for non-formal situations.

[TheForrester]

After purchasing my regulation doublet, I had a matching waistcoat locally made in white. I wear the white waistcoat with white tie for formal occasions, then the original black waistcoat for black tie (semi-formal) occasions. Works out quite well.

[Profane James]

Speaking of the Sheriffmuir, would this be considered one?
It was posted by @OC Richard a while back, and really caught my eye, but seems to have slight differences from the modern Sheriffmuir. I like the small turned down lapels, and how he wears it. One of those 'individually tailored styles'?

image.jpeg

[plaid preacher]

Well, here I am ready for a night out a couple of years ago, doublet and black tie. I think it worked and I like it more than the standard issue PC.