One more question about the Montrose doublet

[Nick]

I've got one more question about the Montrose doublet. I'm working on modifying a pattern to make it fully double breasted, but I'm not sure about the length. I had thought that the kilt was strapped on over the doublet, but I just saw a couple pictures that look like the doublet is worn over the kilt (there was a telltale bit of fabric peeking out from under the belt.) Which is correct? I haven't cut out the material yet (got 100% linen for the lining! Hooray!), so I can still alter the length.

[Moosehead]

The jacket is very short in front, worn over the kilt. Belt then goes over the jacket, most jackets having some sort of "belt hangers" to keep the belt from slipping down.

[ByDand]

Just what Moosehead said!

[Sherry]

Why are you using linen for the lining? Why not silk?

[Nick]

A couple reasons, actually. First and foremost is avaliablity. I'm in a rural area, and the one semi-decent fabric store within two hour's drive had linen. Which is a miracle in and of itself, they rarely have all-natural materials, the closest they usually have is a linen-poly blend. They had silkesque and satinesque fabrics, but man-mades don't breath and since I'm going to be in a wool double breasted doublet, and an 8-yd wool kilt, with a fly plaid, on the first of July, I want something that breaths! I also like the feel of linen, and like the combination of wool and linen.

I also imagine linen is less expensive and easier to work with than silk.

[Hamish]

I've got one more question about the Montrose doublet. I'm working on modifying a pattern to make it fully double breasted, but I'm not sure about the length. I had thought that the kilt was strapped on over the doublet, but I just saw a couple pictures that look like the doublet is worn over the kilt (there was a telltale bit of fabric peeking out from under the belt.) Which is correct? I haven't cut out the material yet (got 100% linen for the lining! Hooray!), so I can still alter the length.

Nick, as Moosehead says, the doublet is worn over the kilt, but I am not sure what he means by it being "very short in front" - it is short all the way round! In fact, the bottom of the doublet should cover the top of the kilt at all points so that the dress belt, when worn through the loops on the outside of the doublet, is in the same position as it would be if worn on the kilt. My 1965 Montrose came as standard with two elasticated hooks which hung from the inside at the back and which linked into two corresponding loops sewn inside the top of the kilt. These helped the doublet return to its proper position if the wearer raised his arms - as in Highland Dancing. But, for normal formal wear, these might not be necessary.

[Nick]

My 1965 Montrose came as standard with two elasticated hooks which hung from the inside at the back and which linked into two corresponding loops sewn inside the top of the kilt. These helped the doublet return to its proper position if the wearer raised his arms - as in Highland Dancing. But, for normal formal wear, these might not be necessary.

That's a great idea! I imagine they would pull the jacket back into place when you stand up after sitting down, as well. Something to think about.

[Sherry]

I think the loops would be a great idea for PCs as well: too many men letting their kilts droop & flashing white shirt between the jacket & kilt!

Nick, you might try ordering fabric online. I know it has its limitations, such as not being able to handle the fabric, but silk can be obtained for very reasonable prices, if you ever want to go that route. One advantage to the silk is that it is slippery, & makes the jacket easier to put on & take off.

[Nick]

Well, I've already got 3.5 yards of linen sitting on my floor

But I am ordering the wool online. Nobody around here is a reliable dealer in wool. Ben Franklins has it, but in narrow bolts, almost never in a solid color, and then rarely in black.