Waistcoat style

[wvpiper]

I noticed in a photo in the kilts in media thread that Prince Charles is wearing a waistcoat that has a 'horizontal' bottom to it; the bottom is cut in a straight line. Unlike most that I've seen which are 'angled' or rounded from the bottom button down to the bottom. Is there a reason, other than taste, that his waistcoat is like that?

[JSFMACLJR]

Waistcoats worn with the kilt are often made with a straight bottom edge, like the Duke is wearing. This form of waistcoat doesn't get in the way of the sporran. His tailoring is much better than that illustrated in the photo you included of the Argyll jacket! In that picture, the waistcoat just doesn't seem to "fit" properly...which is what one would expect in the difference between mass-produced and bespoke clothing.

[wvpiper]

Other than the Prince, I've not seen a vest like that. Even the illustrations at Scotweb for their made to measure waistcoats are not straight along the bottom. The image I posted was from the Tartan Museum, fwiw.

Could you wear a waistcoat like that without a jacket?

[Friday]

21st Century Kilts has waistcoats cut straight across the bottom.

[wvpiper]

21st Century Kilts has waistcoats cut straight across the bottom.

ahh, so they do, but they're not exactly selling stereotypical kilts.

Is the straight cut a new trend ?Is the straight cut of the princes' an homage to a new trend?

[The Wizard of BC]

The higher and straight across the bottom style of waistcoat is actually a bit older than the ones that are longer and have the "notches" at the bottom front.
When men wore their trousers at the natural waist the waistcoat was cut to just cover the waistband of the trousers.
On these waistcoats the bottom was usually cut almost straight across and you always left the bottom button undone.

As mens trousers began to be worn lower (beginning around the period between the wars) the waistcoat was lengthened in the front and the two "notches" were added to simulate the unbuttoned bottom button.

When I was growing up the rule was that if the waistcoat had a straight bottom you left the bottom button undone. If the waistcoat had notches than you buttoned all the buttons because it was already open at the bottom.

Today's jacket and waistcoat styles are fairly modern. And almost all the jackets are made by a very small group of companies centered around York, England. most Kilt companies that buy their jackets today probably have them done by one of these companies. So they all look exactly the same.

To get a Jacket and Waistcoat not from this "cookie cutter" style you are talking custom or bespoke. Think expensive.
The high end companies like 21st Century Kilts can afford these custom Jackets. While the rest of us are stuck with "normal".

[Arlen]

I actually altered a regular waistcoat to have the straight bottom and I absolutely agree that it fits far more comfortably and looks a lot sharper.
The reason they are seen so rarely is that so few people can afford anything but the mas produced highland attire most of the shops sell. (Which is usually great quality and looks great, too.)

[wvpiper]

The higher and straight across the bottom style of waistcoat is actually a bit older than the ones that are longer and have the "notches" at the bottom front....................

Thanks very much for that explanation.

If I were to modify a waistcoat for a straight bottom, where should the bottom of the waistcoat be? At the navel so that it covers the rise of the kilt?

Also, would it be OK to wear it without a jacket? I like the look also and agree it does look 'sharper'

thanks again!

[Sir William]

To get a Jacket and Waistcoat not from this "cookie cutter" style you are talking custom or bespoke. Think expensive.

You might also look at some of the waistcoats offered by vendors who cater to the Cowboy Action Shooting crowd. Most have the points, but there are some that are straight across, and a few outfits will make you a waistcoat for a fairly reasonable price.

Or you can do what I've done, and modified an existed pointed waistcoat so that it is straight across. It's not particularly hard.

[DWFII]

That's a shawl lapel waistcoat. That style, as well as notch lapel and several others were very popular from about the mid 19th century to the early 20th century. Almost all were cut with a straight bottom and most were worn with the bottom button unfastened.

A straight bottom, high gorge, notch lapel waistcoat is what I usually wear...with and without a kilt.