Weatherproof Sporran?

**Sinclare** · 17th October 16, 09:50 AM

Has anyone here weatherproofed their leather sporrans? I've never done it in the past 10 years, but then I've gotten nicer sporrans over the past year, so I'd like to make sure I take care of them.

**Luke MacGillie** · 17th October 16, 10:22 AM

Yes, in the sense that I treat my leather on a quasi regular basis with either real neatsfoot oil, bear oil, snow seal or some form of polish or a combination of all.

**Tarheel** · 17th October 16, 01:59 PM

I have only treated my hunting sporrans (plain fronts and unadorned) with neatsfoot oil or tung oil. I haven't tried the spray water-proofing available for boots. I'm leery of the silica base. I would wear that finish off my boots but not sure I want that product on my kilt.

I haven't tried a paste wax or polish that can be heated into the pores (with a hairdryer) but I think it could work.

**MNlad** · 17th October 16, 04:12 PM

Yes . . .but. The appropriate treatment for leather depends on how the leather was originally treated and finished. The harder the finish, the more forgiving it is to various treatments. Snow Seal and Mink Oil work very well on hard leather. While great for work boots, I stay away from Neatsfoot oil because of the residue it may leave behind. For softer leather, I have had good luck with Lexol. Remember, the softer the leather, the more likely it is to darken when treated, so dab a bit of any treatment on the back of the sporran and check results before forging ahead.

**Tarheel** · 17th October 16, 06:34 PM

I've had accidents with Lexol on leather and it does seal permanently. I found that (Lexol) area stiffer than I would want for a sporran. My Rob Roy style bag, as an example.

My hunting sporrans are all thick, stiffer (saddle quality) leather. The oil works, but I haven't treated the back and I don't get a transfer to my kilt.

**Todd Bradshaw** · 17th October 16, 08:33 PM

so dab a bit of any treatment on the back of the sporran and check results before forging ahead

Yep, good advice. Keep in mind that especially in light of current VOC rules for finishes, things may be more complex than they used to be. Oils may not be compatible with water-based dye or topcoats and some preservatives may liquefy alcohol based leather dye.

Three sporrans made from the same piece of leather

Alcohol based dye and finish at left, water-based dye and finish at middle, oil-based at right. I suppose you could wax any of them, but I wouldn't put oil, snowseal or other petroleum-based goo on all of them without testing first.

Naturally, the best weather protection for any sporran is a Mr. Antony Inverness Cape.

**Tarheel** · 18th October 16, 02:49 AM

Always the sharp and practical dresser is Todd.

Weathering a sporran has it's appeal for some folks. I compare it to motorcycle jackets and vests. The "seasoned" veterans appears more comfortable in well worn leathers.

**Luke MacGillie** · 18th October 16, 04:55 AM

Originally Posted by Todd Bradshaw

Naturally, the best weather protection for any sporran is a Mr. Antony Inverness Cape.

Inverness Cape........City folks and their fancy dress, They went and cut their plaid in half to be fashionable, then have to buy another garment to keep dry when we all know that's what the top half of your plaid is for

**MNlad** · 18th October 16, 04:08 PM

I found that (Lexol) area stiffer than I would want for a sporran. My Rob Roy style bag, as an example.

I noted the same result, but found it a fair trade off for the rejuvenation it gave some very dry leather on a Rob Roy of mine. As they say, results may vary. Leather is a very fickle natural material. That's what gives it so much character.