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20th January 06, 02:10 PM
#1
Photo Lights
I was searching for info on Photographers lights and taking pics of small objects. One of the things I discoverd were light boxes,used for lighting small items like kilt pins,sporrans,sgien dubhs etc. Some searching turned up these two sites which have info on making your own light boxes and lighting in general. Since I'm like most,clueless when it comes to photography,I thought I'd post them, perhaps someone can find them helpful.
http://www.paperminis.com/tutorials/..._light_box.htm
http://thehowzone.com/how/Photo-Softbox/1
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20th January 06, 03:34 PM
#2
I am a photographer (and throughout my 20's I was a professional stage lighting designer), so you guys feel free to ask me anything.
Those links are good. You don't have to spend alot of money (or any) to get good lighting for photography. The important thing to remember about making light hard or soft is the "size" of the light source (not brightness, how it is focused, distance, type, etc.). A bank of fluorescent tubes would have a size of 8 square-feet, while a standard type A light bulb has a size of 3 square-inches (approximately). The light bulb will give much harsher shadows and reflections then the 8 square-foot source. You can also take a "small" light source and bounce the light off of a surface to increase its "size". From a photographer's point-of-view the reflector is now the light source.
Also note that the light can become too soft and the details of the subject will lose definition. The best thing is to have a mix of hard and soft light for most subjects.
-ian
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20th January 06, 04:12 PM
#3
Thanks for the info. I take around 250-300 pics a week at work for referance. (I'm a landscape designer).When it come to using lights and other paraphernalia I'm a beginner.
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20th January 06, 06:26 PM
#4
Easiest thing to do to get a large source of light is go to Target and buy a couple of white Chinese lanterns. The lantern is (or was) $5.00 and $5.00 for the light socket for a 12" lantern. Great for soft sources of light. I use larger ones (18"- 30") on professional film and video shoots all the time.
Adam
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20th January 06, 07:32 PM
#5
Looks like you've had plenty of good advice here - but I thought I'd throw my two cents worth in as a photography teacher. Here's another link:
http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/light_box_light_tent
Good Luck!
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20th January 06, 08:07 PM
#6
Originally Posted by pdcorlis
Thanks for the link. Any and all tips, tricks and advice are apreciated.
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20th January 06, 10:54 PM
#7
Cool links, guys! I've been thinking about building something for awhile now.
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21st January 06, 03:26 AM
#8
Good Idea this one I'm going to have a try.Thanks
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21st January 06, 06:10 PM
#9
I'm sure there's a lot of us here at X-Marks who have cameras with built in timers. I'd like to ask those who have any experiance using timers to share any tips,tricks,etc. on using them. Anything would be appreciated. Thanks.
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21st January 06, 11:52 PM
#10
Originally Posted by Southern Breeze
I'm sure there's a lot of us here at X-Marks who have cameras with built in timers. I'd like to ask those who have any experiance using timers to share any tips,tricks,etc. on using them. Anything would be appreciated. Thanks.
I am assuming you mean the timer that you set, run to the front of the camera, sit down with the rest of the family on the couch, everyone smiles, and then waits, and waits, and then waits... then you get up to check on the camera, and just as you stand up POP, the shutter is release? That timer?
Pro's use that timer feature more than most would think. In times when you are doing shots with long shutter speeds (to let in lots of light) where you want to minimize camera vibration -- no matter how steady your tripod is -- the camera and wiggle just enough to blur your image. The act of pushing the shutter button is enough to do that. Set the delay shutter timer so that the camera rig "settles down" before the picture is made. (this is all assuming you have a good reason to not use a remote shutter release.)
And sure, you can use it for self-portraits. It helps to get a stand-in to focus, meter, and compose on. If you can't find someone, use an old theatre lighting designer trick: get an A-frame ladder and throw a blanket or sheet over it. You should have enough time to get the stand-in out of the way, and get in place. Most cameras are set to 10 seconds (which really is alot of time), newer cameras allow you to adjust that time. My camera has special flash patterns in a tiny LED to let me know how much time is left.
-ian
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