Traditional vs. Casual Kilts

[pastorsteve]

My question comes from a lot of posts I've seen on the forum. Specifically, excluding material, what is the difference between traditional and casual kilts. I see the obvious differences between the pocketed "modern" canvas and denim and other ones. But when it comes to a tartan kilt is there a traditional and casual difference - excluding material weight and content?

[george7]

Quality. Formal kilts use more fabric, have deeper pleats, are made of better fabric (13+ oz wool). They have a great swing, fit well, and look great. It's a contrast you'll immediately see if you ever see both at the same time.

[cavscout]

You will likely get several variations on the differences but to me, the major difference is a casual kilt has less material (about 4 yards) which translates into fewer, wider pleats and is cut so that it rides lower on the waist like jeans would be worn today. So instead of a 24" kilt length you may have a 22".

Some latitude should be understood given that some consider a traditional kilt to be a 4 yard box pleat kilt while others may consider it 8 yards knife pleat

[DotDLL]

Some casual kilts are cut with patterns that are fairly different from a traditional Scottish kilt. For example, on the Utilikilts I own, the pleats go all the way around, with the apron hiding those in front. I've found that this design, combined with the narrower apron, makes it a bit easier to "stay decent" in many circumstances, especially when sitting down and getting up, although your mileage may vary.

Casual kilts are often machine washable, whereas traditional Scottish-type kilts are often not. In some cases, namely with my Original-model Utilikilts, I've had adequate success machine drying them as well, although I should note this was not officially recommended (by the Utilikilts company), and does not seem to work well with other model Utilikilts. Some Scottish-type kilts are, however, machine washable, and look very nice. I have a "Semi-Traditional" tartan kilt from USA Kilts which is machine washable and looks great. Because of this convenience, I tend to wear it a lot more often than I do a wool kilt, which takes more effort to clean.

[The Barry]

A lot of the "differences" can be found in the "options".

Traditional kilts won't have pockets, for example, that's what a sporran is for!
A traditional kilt will be made out of wool (13oz +), have leather straps and buckles to close it (no velcro for the trads) and pleats only in the back.

Now, the confusing issues arise with semi-traditional kilts. These can be cut to ride lower on the hips (as has been stated), made from poly blends, acrylic, etc, but retain the overall look of a kilt. You can even sneak pockets into a semi-trad if you're clever.

Some examples:

Trad: 8 yard hand-sewn (or even machine stitched) 16 oz wool kilt, done in a tartan (not always), knife pleated to the sett (or stripe, or maybe even box pleated but this is open for debate), and is donned with two or sometimes three leather straps and buckles. These kilts will have a liner, and will be made to measure.

Semi-traditional: SWK (or insert your favorite semi-trad kilt brand here) 4-5 yard acrylic kilt, done in a tartan, knife pleated to the sett. No pockets, the fabric is nice and heavy, but there is less of it. These are usually more "off the rack" kilts, that are made to fit a certain natural waist size with the rest of the kilt measurements being extrapolated from that one measurement.

Non-traditional or contemporary: This is pretty much everything else. UK's, kilts with pockets, kilts in denim, etc. Anything goes. Well, almost anything. With a departure from the traditional cut/fabric of the kilt comes freedom for the garment manufacturer/designer to explore more ideas for the manliest of unbifurcated garments.

These are not static boundaries, and this was by NO means a complete list, just a starter guide. I hope that it helps.

[The Wizard of BC]

I have written a tutorial on the differences between the types of Kilts that are currently out there.

http://xmarksthescot.com/article/sa1.php

Basically a Traditional Style Kilt is Hand Sewn, will fit with the waist fastened just under the ribs and from Good Quality Worsted Wool in a Registered Tartan.
The Hallmark of a Traditional Kilt is the internal interfacings and strengheners built into the Kilt and hidden by the liner that give the Kilt its ability to not stress the stitching and insure a long life. The nickname of a Full, hand-sewn, 8 yard Traditional Kilt is a "Tank" because they will wear like one and last a lifetime.
All Traditional Style Kilts should be custom made.

A Casual Style Kilt will look very similar to a Traditional but may be Machine Sewn, may be made from a fabric other than Wool or Tartan, and may use fewer, wider or shallower pleats. Some casuals can be worn lower, at what I call mid-rise.
The hallmark of a Casual is the lack of interfacings and strenghenings. Most Casual Style Kilts rely on the strength of the stitching to hold their shape.
A Casual Kilt can be easily taken for a Traditional at first glance.
Casual Style Kilts can be custom made or off-the-rack.

A Contemporary Style Kilt is one where the interfacings and strengthenings are incorporated into the Kilt but in a different manner than a Traditional. Usually inside the waistband. Contemporary Style Kilts can be made from Tartan Wool but usually are made from a solid color fabric of a Polyester/Cotton Blend or 100% Cotton similar to "Dockers" slacks.
Contemporary Kilt usually have Pockets incorporated into their design, eliminating the need for a Sporran. A Sporran may be worn with a Contemporary Kilt if the wearer wishes and most people will not be able to tell on first glance that it is anything but a Kilt.
A Contemporary Style Kilt is usually custom made.

A MUG is an Alternative Garment that resembles a Kilt. They may have pleats and aprons but are designed to be worn differently than a Kilt and usally in a style other than what is the conventional Kilt manner. MUGS usually do not have any interfacings or strengthenings built into them. All the stress of wearing them is taken up in the stitching. Similar to Jeans construction.
The hallmark of a MUG is how it is sold and intended to be worn by its designer. Goth wear, Grunge wear and the like are some examples.
A Mug is almost always sold as off-the-peg by waist size.

[Spartan]

Thanks, Wizard, for the link to the tutorial. It's very helpful.

[ronstew]

I have a casual kilt from Rocky at USA Kilts. He went to great lengths to get me exactly what I asked for, and the price and time of delivery were excellent. I highly recommend Rocky and his products.

That being said, the first day I wore it, I passed another gentleman in a traditional wool kilt, and watched the way it moved. No contest. A traditional kilt looks much, much better in motion.

But it is my only kilt, and I wear it several times a year to work - I am a teacher and the kids love it. Nobody but me knows that it is not made in Scotland by a little old lady under an oil lamp. That would not be the case if I wore it to a Burns dinner, but in the streets it is fine.

I am just a few months from purchasing one or two kilts from local makers who do things the old way. And I'll put on the casual kilt from time to time for fun, casual occasions.

[pastorsteve]

Thanks for all the info. so far.

[Larry124]

Quality. Formal kilts use more fabric, have deeper pleats, are made of better fabric (13+ oz wool). They have a great swing, fit well, and look great. It's a contrast you'll immediately see if you ever see both at the same time.

Maybe just the way it appears in text -- Are you saying that non-traditional kilts do not and can not have any of those attributes?
And I'd say that there are "formal occasion outfits" rather than "formal kilts".
"Better" fabric...? In two years I've yet to wear a kilt in a circumstance or venue in which 13+ oz wool would have been a "better" fabric.
My experience is that non-traditional kilts come in varying degrees of quality (granted within their category).
I don't separate my valuation of quality from my additional determinations of both value and utility.
I think that the differences between kilts need to be viewed through all of those lenses.