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14th January 06, 12:43 PM
#1
Bingo!!!
So, on my way to pick up a nice bottle of Jameson's this morning, I headed over to a bargain fabric warehouse I've been to once before. On my previous trip I had noticed a few bolts of tartan. Now, seeing as I was not looking for tartan and not even considering a kilt at the time, I basically ignored them.
This time, however, I was on a mission from God! Lo and behold, not just a few bolts, but approximately 50 or so. Almost all the Canadian Provincial tartans, including the national Maple Leaf, and dozens of others! I sure wish I knew my tartans. I did recognize every variation of Stewart, Black Watch and some others they had named. Unfortunately, as they get them bulk from the Mill (salesperson did not know which Mill), they don't have names for all of them. She said about 75% are registered tartans, while the remainder are just plaids. Either way, very nice.
This batch are all PV with no weights listed. I suspect they are 10-11oz, no heavier for sure. Price: $10.00 Cdn/metre!!
They also have an amazing selection of tweeds and solids, all 100% wool and at least 16oz. Even Hodden. Price: $11.00 Cdn/metre!!
So, what did I get, you ask? A lonely bolt of Farquharson was crying for me (maternal Grandfather was a Findlay, a sept). Price: $7.00Cdn/metre. 3.5 metres, double left over. The wife said buy it...so I did!
First kilt is underway already (Mr. Jameson can wait a little longer for company :-) ) Being a, relatively, small guy in the waist area 7 metres will do just dandy. Haven't done the calcs as yet, but with app. 3" pleats and 1" showing, it should swing just grand. Done to stripe, of course, being an ex-mil type.
Now if only I had a digital camera!
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14th January 06, 01:00 PM
#2
What an excellent find, congrats. Good luck with the sewing.
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14th January 06, 01:03 PM
#3
Great find! Back in October I found a roll of 13 oz. blackwatch that was extremely cheap so I know the feeling. Congratulations.
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14th January 06, 01:35 PM
#4
Great find, Moosehead! Good luck with making your first kilt.
"Touch not the cat bot a glove."
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14th January 06, 02:06 PM
#5
Well, luck shouldn't have anything to do with it...I hope. I have a ton of sewing experience. Being to the stripe makes it easier as well. Momma didna raise a fool.
Its already pinned up, with a couple of minor adjustments required. The wife says it makes my butt look good!! And I ain't got no butt. ;) Thats the Huron part.
Now to peruse some pics to get the ideal pleat placement on either side. Pleats take up approximately half the width, correct?
They also had a nice heavyweight Macleod Dress in wool, which looks surprisingly like the Canadian Irish Regiments tartan. Well, not the sett, but the colours. Nicely subdued, almost ochre, yellow. Hmmm...
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16th January 06, 06:02 AM
#6
Allrighty then...
approx. 14 hours work and just about done. Only the straps and lining to go. Geez, this PV is nice stuff to work with! I've worked with just about every type of material, from tooling leather to Nomex to birchbark, and this stuff is excellent. Very happy with it.
Only problem I encountered was with the first few pleats. Started using a "normal" blind stitch, but noticed after the first couple of pleats that it was pulling the material enough to misalign my horizontals by about 1/8". Not alot, but enough to bug me. So I changed to doing a blind the way I would normally do one and the results are excellent, everything beautifully lined up. The only other change I would make, would be to add another layer of material to the waistband to stiffen it somewhat. Even though it covers 6 or so layers at the turn, I think a little stiffer material underneath would be good for me. I did not trim the pleats at the waist, simply because with this weight of material I did not feel it necessary and it is not at all bulky. Very nice, indeed.
The fit is excellent, with a 3" rise. Figured if I was going military-style, might as well go all the way.
Measurements: I'm 6'2" tall, 35 at the navel, 33 at the belt line, 40 at the butt. I used just under the full 7 metres purchased, so probably 7 yards. If memory serves, 3.5" back pleats(is that the correct term?), 0.5" reveal. 24" drop with 7.5" to hip line as I'm shortwaisted.
Now, I did the whole thing "blind": no markings, just the old Mark 1 Eyeball. I'm pretty intuitive with this kind of thing. For someone else, obviously, I would have to do some marking no doubt, unless they were standing at my side the entire time.
Not sure how much it weighs, but must be in the 3 lb range. Has an excellent swing according to the Mrs. Now, all I need is to find a digital so that I can post some pics once I finish up today. 
Well, BUGGER IT!!! :-x Having been so pleased with my new Farquharson, I've just found that it is NOT a Farquharson sett! Colours are the same, but not the sett. They had it listed as Farquharson. And I haven't a clue as to what it is?! 
Here's a little graphic of the set I just did up:sett The blue is actually darker and very hard to pick out, but this is basically it. Any ideas who it belongs to??
Last edited by Moosehead; 16th January 06 at 07:45 AM.
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16th January 06, 09:53 AM
#7
I too have found most of the Canadian tartans in PV at the local Fabric land. I have 4 yards of Maple Leaf (any Canadian should be proud to wear that one ) on the wall, and a NS and a NB fleece blanket in the pub (garage).
Here's a good reference for the Canadian tartans http://www.pch.gc.ca/progs/cpsc-ccsp/sc-cs/o6_e.cfm
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17th January 06, 06:16 AM
#8
Colin, that would be Fabricville out this way. Guess I'll have to check them out as well, although I can't see their price being any better. Ya never know.
Well, put in lining last night, nicely stiffened her up. Have alot of scraps around the house, so I used a double layer of 440 count Egyptian cotton in a navy blue. I have no idea how the old-timers wore a traditional horse-hair lined kilt in hot weather! Mine, with just the several layers of cloth will be hot enough, I'd say, even in the coldest weather. Those old boys must have burned their kidneys.
Straps went on as well and I'll put the buckles on later today, along with the strap hole for the under-apron strap. Once thats all done, I'll have to see if she's still hanging straight in front and whether or not I need to do any adjustments on the first and back pleats. Then double fring the apron and voila...I hope.
Fingers crossed.
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17th January 06, 10:33 AM
#9
Machine sewn...tell me this is machine-sewn! LOLOL.....
Congratulations. Pics, we want pics when it's done!
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17th January 06, 11:32 AM
#10
I could tell you it was machine sewn...but I would be lying. As mentioned, I've tons of sewing experience, which made it much simpler no doubt.
A nice touch, I think, is my hangar loops. They're made from Nomex. Figure if the whole thing goes up in flames, I'd at least have something left over.
Grand total will be in the 20-21 hour range. I'm still PO'd about the tartan though. :-x As for pics, I'll have to find someone with a digital. And, being out in the sticks, that could be some time.
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