Can it be done? This would be MONSTER of a conversion

**NorCalPiper** · 1st December 10, 12:35 PM

OK.....I've had something eating away at me for months now. A while back I picked up a casual kilt in a 16OZ tartan that I just wasn't satisfied with. There was nothing wrong with the kilt or construction, its just that the WAY it was constructed didn't appeal to me, so I passed it to my brother who wanted it and who is not quite the kilted snob as I am. anyway, he recently returned it since he has lost more weight and it won't notch tight anymore on him. My only real issue with this kilt is that the front apron is squared, not flared. This reminded me of how my mother makes her kilted skirts, and when I talked to her about it it, she said that this technique is used when less material is used. The first folded pleat and the last are deeper than normal, and when worn give an illusion of the front apron flaring out. The look just wasn't for me.

So.......I'm thinking that I can deconstruct this kilt and make a Box Pleat. I've never deconstructed a kilt to alter or remake, so I figured that as a kilt maker i should be able to do this. The yardage and the sett are perfect for this endeavor, but I just don't know if previous pleating will "line" the fabric, or if removing the machine stitching will weaken the fabric over all. Could I de-stitch the fabric and then soak it in cold water for a few hours then stretch and lay it out in the sun to dry, then press the material??? anyone ever done something like this? thanks for any help-Josh

**piperdbh** · 1st December 10, 12:41 PM

Sounds like a WHOLE LOT of pressing to smooth out the original creases. Are the pleats cut out?

**davidlpope** · 1st December 10, 01:11 PM

Check with Matt Newsome. IIRC, one of his early box-pleats was a casual knife-pleat kilt in LC's New York City tartan which he deconstructed and rebuilt. The finished pictures of that kilt looked great...

David

**M. A. C. Newsome** · 1st December 10, 01:14 PM

Yeah, the hardest part about that conversion was ripping out all of the machine stitching. It was a nightmare. Pressing out all the former creases was a bear, as well, but nothing compared to pulling out all the machine stitching.

**Chas** · 1st December 10, 01:49 PM

Surely the first thing is to look under the lining. If the pleats have been cut away to reduce bulk as they should be, then you are stuck with it as is.

Or am I mis-understanding this totally?

Regards

Chas

**CMcG** · 1st December 10, 02:01 PM

slohairt (owner of Keltoi) started a thread a while ago about recycling women's tartan skirts to make a box pleat kilt:
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...ed-kilt-18319/

I'm glad NorCalPiper brought it up again because I've been thinking about something similar. Last year, I got a great deal on a PV Maple Leaf tartan from MacHummel of Canadian Casual Kilts. It was a display model that was made for a rather skinny mannequin. After moving the buckles and straps, I can wear it, but I'm not happy with it.

I've been thinking about taking it apart and trying to convince my mother that she needs to start sewing again. Luckily for me, the pleats weren't cut out on this kilt!

**MacBean** · 1st December 10, 02:17 PM

I've found a 2-3x magnifier really helpful in ripping out machine stitches from wool. It's amazing how much easier some tasks are when you can see what you are doing. The hand-eye are capable of absurd precision.

I've used one that goes around the head and turns one into a dork. The iluminated magnifiers on swing arms might work well. Even a pair of reading glasses from KMart could do the trick.

**NorCalPiper** · 1st December 10, 02:23 PM

OK....I'm gonna go for it. I'm heading out to buy some magnifying glasses. Should I soak the fabric and repress it after it dries?

**Pleater** · 2nd December 10, 02:51 PM

I find working in a good clear light really helps to show up the stitches, the sewing thread can be an exact match for colour but it still shows up due to it being shinier than the fabric.

You might consider only unpicking as much as is necessary to alter the apron, if that is possible.

If you do go ahead and deconstruct the whole kilt, give it a gentle wash in slightly warm water in the bathtub or other large container - keep the washing and rinsing water at the same temperature and don't agitate it more than necessary to work the water through the fabric.

Leave the fabric overnight to drain and partly dry. Fan fold it - that is like /\/\/\/\/\/\ but flatter so it doesn't acquire extra creases. Next day find the inside surface and iron it lightly. You might need to go over the entire length several times but it is better to take the time using a warm iron than bash it with a hot one.

If the fabric dries out before the creases give in then use a damp cloth and slightly hotter iron, and press rather than iron. You should find that the fabric will return to a smooth flat strip and irregularities from the kilt making will vanish away.

I would not recomend soaking, stretching or sunlight - all are detremental to wool. Sunlight on wet wool can scorch it so it has a brown crisp surface, as though toasted.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

**Dixiecat** · 3rd December 10, 10:14 AM

http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/p...en=17204762439

An Ott light or similar product helps a great deal in seeing what you are doing. Bright sunlight is even better!

I'm confused tho, if it's only the apron flare that bothers you, how come you don't address that instead of going full tilt into a box pleat conversion?