First pleat on kilt with large sett size

[daibhidh]

Hello all - I'm working on a kilt right now in Robertson Weathered (Lochcarron, Strome). I'm about to start the steeking. I've run into an issue that I've not seen before.

The sett size is quite large, resulting in the inside of the first pleat laying over and extending past the "deep" pleat (which is actually slightly smaller):



I have two concerns:
1. I'm worried that the first pleat (and maybe the second) might droop down below the bottom of the front apron while it's being worn. Given that I haven't done the steeking yet, if the steeking will prevent this problem, great, but I was wondering if anyone would weigh in on this. If the steeking won't fix it, I could turn the bottom of the pleat up as for the deep pleat. Curious if folks think that might be a good solution if it's necessary.
2. I'm worried that the first pleat hanging so far out might prevent the front apron from sitting nicely while being worn. Would love to know if folks think this will be a problem, and any thoughts about mitigation.

I ordered 9 yards of fabric, but I wish I had ordered more like 10 (with a 44.5" hip measurement I thought that 9 should have been safe.) I would have liked to make the deep and inverted pleats a bit bigger, but I didn't want to spare any more pleats, there are only 19 as it is, for 22 1/4" for pleats at the hip. Given that the double stripe (to which I am pleating) appears twice per sett, I'm also wondering whether I should have pleated to the half sett rather than the whole sett (I asked the future owner, and he preferred wider, deeper pleats, so I went with that).

Anyway, I appreciate any feedback you all can supply. Hope everyone is staying safe, and warm if that's relevant to you.

[Pleater]

You can shorten the edge of the pleat to draw it up/prevent drooping - run a thread along the fold and ease it shorter, press to ease out any wrinkles.
Wool fabric can be shaped and distorted to accommodate three dimensional curves - though I would leave the sewing thread in place to prevent future pressing lengthening the edge again.

Anne the Pleater