Kilt rpair questions and suggestions

[scotchmaster]

Sooo.... I have 2 wool kilts I guess some folks on here call them tanks. The first need the straps replaced and to be taken in a wee bit. Also one of the belt loops needs some fixin'. All of which seems pretty straightforward, I think. The second is the tricky one, it is about an inch and a half to long. I would like it shortened but don't want to loose the selvedge. I guess my question is can anyone suggest a kilt maker in the New England area that has the chops to make these alterations and secondly is it going to be cost prohibitive to have the 2nd kilt mentioned fixed. I live in Boston, but it appears the 2 kilt makers I new locally are no longer in business. Please PM me with any suggestions and kilt maker contact info. Cheers!

[Father Bill]

For the length - if it's a real tank, then hitch it up 2" on your belly. Problem solved. You can get kilt straps and sew them on yourself, and while you're at it, move the one strap and the one buckle a bit closer together. Problem #2 solved. Finally, carefully remove both belt loops. You don't need them, they're nae traditional, and if you use them you'll eventually stretch the tartan and distort the set. Problem #3 solved.

[bonnie heather]

Good advice from Father Bill.
There are many kilts that I've shortened from the top to preserve the selvedge. It's not hard, but just takes a lot of time because you need to un-stitch the lining, top band, canvas, lining, straps, buckles, etc.

It's easy to mark 1 1/2" down from the top, but before cutting, please reinforce / stay stitch the pleats, just below where you marked to cut off. Then cut.

Other factors to consider.... the strap hole has to be re-made lower, buckles and straps moved lower, belt loops lower ...and then the tartan pattern won't match.

Also, the hip stitching probably will need to be extended.

And..... because there is usually a taper from waist to hip, when shortening from the top, the new kilt waist and hip measurements become somewhat bigger. So double-check that.

When all that is done, stitch everything back together.

It usually takes about 12 - 16 hours to do this (for me).

So..... I would suggest you try the most direct and simple solution first.

[Barb T]

And I would add that it is perfectly possible to put a hem in a kilt and not have it be noticeable. It is a whole lot cheaper and completely reversible should you ever wish to sell the kilt. Given that it takes a kiltmaker about 20 hours to make a kilt, the 16 hours that Bonnie Heather quotes for the amount of time to do the full "from the top alteration" should give you a good idea of just what a big job it is and, also, an inkling that a competent kiltmaker should charge you a bundle for such an alteration.

And, for the buckle and strap question for the other kilt, please see the instructions that I posted awhile back at http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...-larger-78931/

[bonnie heather]

Yes, hemming is definitely another possibility.

Doing it by hand would require about 1 hour of prep time for the apron facings and tapers, 2 hours or so to hand sew the hem with tiny invisible stitches, and more time to press the hem, re-fold, pin, baste and press the lower pleats. And a bit more time to re-stitch the bottoms of the apron and underapron facings and tapers.

It does take less time than shortening from the top.

There was just one situation that it didn't work well to hem, and that was for a military box pleated kilt. There was way too much bulk, so I had to shorten from the top. That one did take about 16 hours, because the pleating is more complex. Otherwise 12 hours or so is more usual.

[New World Czech]

Listen to the pros. I have hemmed a couple of kilts which were worked great. One of those kilts I recently sent to Bonnie for a top down rebuild because of other fit issues. Bonnie did a wonderful job, great fit and the kilt bottom feels much lighter without the hem.
The kilt below is hemmed.