Pleat under the over Apron?

[eahuntley]

I'm looking at the Xkilt Manual(The 60 page version), and I'm a little fuzzy on just how this pleat under the apron is made. I'm looking at the pleating diagram appendix, and I see that there is 12" set aside for this pleat. Is this a box pleat like the rest, or is it just a knife pleat? It doesn't have the inner folds charted out like the other box pleats, which makes me think it may be a knife pleat. If It's a knife pleat, does it matter which direction it faces? Does anyone have any more detailed pictures of this pleat?

I do understand what that pleat is for, and I definitely want one on my next kilt. I just want to make sure I implement it correctly.

[Pleater]

The pleat is folded beneath the apron.

It is required for ease of movement and it also means that the apron will drop when you are sitting or climbing stairs or need to step over something, so that the aprons are not pulled apart or remain suspended in a blush-worthy manner.

As I ride my bicycle in my revere Kingussie style kilt I make those pleats even larger, but as it forms the edge of the apron I take out an inch or so from that pleat by shaping the apron with an infolding of the edge at the waist, which vanishes away by the time it reaches the bottom of the fell.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[eahuntley]

So, is the under apron pleat always the same size, or is their formula for determining it's size? The one on the X-kilt uses 12" of fabric. Could I cut it down to 8" if I had to?

[ratspike]

So, is the under apron pleat always the same size, or is their formula for determining it's size? The one on the X-kilt uses 12" of fabric. Could I cut it down to 8" if I had to?

Generally speaking I make the depth of that pleat about half of the apron width. For example, a 14" apron gets 7" of pleat, which means the pleat uses 14" of fabric. IMO a nice, deep pleat under the apron makes a kilt that's more comfortable to wear and moves more easily with the body, especially if you're particularly active in it.

[Pleater]

Rather than reducing the pleats beneath the aprons I'd 'economise' - if necessary - by taking a little out of each pleat, or making the pleated section wider so as to have enough fabric for the under apron pleats.

Without those deep pleats sitting down could become problematic as you need so much extra fabric when sitting than standing.

Anne the Pleater :ootd: