Question about the Rise

[Arnot]

I have been commissioned to make a kilt for the pipe major of a local pipe band. He has requested a 3 inch rise (to this point it has only been 2-inch). On a rise such as this, is there a taper outward at the top? If so, is there a rule-of-thumb to determine the amount of taper. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

[The Wizard of BC]

Arnot,

In a traditional style kilt to be worn at the natural waist there will always be flare above the top strap. On a traditionally worn kilt the top strap cinches into the anatomical natural waist right under the ribs. Up at kidney level in the back and three or four finger widths below the bottom of the breastbone in front.

The flare is to allow the top of the kilt to fit up, over the ribs.

In Accordance with TAoK the flare is not outward. but straight up from the smallest width of the pleat taper. On a 3" rise kilt it should be straight up or very slightly wider than the smallest width of the pleat taper.
I usually duplicate the taper from the Fell above the strap.

[Arnot]

Arnot,

In a traditional style kilt to be worn at the natural waist there will always be flare above the top strap. On a traditionally worn kilt the top strap cinches into the anatomical natural waist right under the ribs. Up at kidney level in the back and three or four finger widths below the bottom of the breastbone in front.

The flare is to allow the top of the kilt to fit up, over the ribs.

In Accordance with TAoK the flare is not outward. but straight up from the smallest width of the pleat taper. On a 3" rise kilt it should be straight up or very slightly wider than the smallest width of the pleat taper.
I usually duplicate the taper from the Fell above the strap.

Many Thanks. You have been a great help.

[Barb T]

If you're making a 3" rise (which I did for someone on a kilt), there needs to be quite a bit of flare from the waist toward the top of the rise. Too much is better than not enough - a 3" rise will bring the top of the kilt up around the rib cage. If you don't put enough flare in, the kilt will cut into the rib area when tightly buckled, and then it will just sag down toward the waist.

How much does it need to flare? The best thing to do is measure the person's circumference 3" above the natural waist. If the waist, measured snugly, is 40", and the circumference 3" above that is 42", you'll need to flare the kilt enough so that the top of the kilt is 42" around. You can put some of that flare into the apron itself (maybe 1/4" each side). If you have 25 pleats, the other 1 1/2" will have to be accommodated in each pleat, which would make each pleat 1/16" wider at the very top of the kilt than at the waist.

But, bottom line, it's better to have too much flare than not enough. It needs to be comfortable, and, if it's a little too big around the top, it's going to be hidden under a vest or in the extra fabric of the shirt, if the person isn't wearing a vest.

As an aside, kilts used to have rises of as much as 4"!!

[Arnot]

Thanks, Barb. I'll add this to my bag of tricks. I might be getting more orders for kilts with a 3 inch rise. I made the kilt and piper's plaid for this pipe major and he was quite happy and is going to order more. Whether he will want the 3 inch rise for the rest of his band remains to be seen.

Thanks Again.

[Barb T]

Do you have any idea why he would want a 3" rise for an entire band?

[Arnot]

Do you have any idea why he would want a 3" rise for an entire band?

He might not want it for everyone. He was a piper in the Black Watch and seems rather set in his ways regarding uniforms,etc, so it wouldn't surprise me. I'm not bothered either way. If it's what the band requires, I can do it now. Thanks to you and Steve.

[Arnot]

I have another question regarding making kilts with this sort of rise and flare. I keep track of the size of my pleats as I go along when making a kilt. As I go along, if the pleat portion is wider than it should be I make the pleats a tiny bit smaller to get back to where they should be. I still have a major tendency to make the pleat portion wider (mostly at the waist) than it should be when making a kilt with a 3 inch rise and flare at the top. Any suggestions as to what might cause this? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

[Barb T]

I've found that, if a pleat has any taper at all from the hips to the waist, the pleat tends to want to squidge a bit wider as you sew from the hips to the waist. I always under-pin the size of the pleat at the waist by about 1/32", and they wind up the right size. I then flare a bit toward the top of the kilt, which is essential for a 3" rise.

[Arnot]

I've found that, if a pleat has any taper at all from the hips to the waist, the pleat tends to want to squidge a bit wider as you sew from the hips to the waist. I always under-pin the size of the pleat at the waist by about 1/32", and they wind up the right size. I then flare a bit toward the top of the kilt, which is essential for a 3" rise.

Thanks, Barb. I have several more to make so I'll give this a try.