Reverse pleat on right hand side of the under apron

[freddie]

My oldest kilt has a very deep reversed pleat on the right hand side of the under apron but my other kilts have either a very shallow pleat here or no pleat at all. How important is this pleat and is a kilt properly made without it. My waist and hip measurements are 47 inches and 50 inches so could the kilt makers have been trying to save cloth?

[The Wizard of BC]

Reverse pleats are one of those things that seem to depend on where you learned your trade and from whom.

I have seen kilts with reverse pleats and without. Both types from reputable kiltmakers.
There does seem to be a trend of newer kilts leaving the reverse pleat out to save labor and cost. I am seeing more and more kilts without the reverse pleat. I suspect that the pressures of competition are one factor. Most lower yardage kilts I have seen leave out the reverse pleat and make the deep pleat as shallow as possible.

The depth of the reverse pleat and deep pleat is something that seems to be getting shallower and shallower. In general the deeper the deep and reverse pleats ares the better they seem to resist kicking outward but this seems to be suffering lately.


I prefer to have a reverse pleat. For aesthetic reasons. It looks better to my eye. To me skipping the reverse pleat is a shortcut.

I have made one kilt without a reverse pleat due to not having enough fabric. It looked OK and the customer did not notice it even when it was pointed out.

So in the end don't lose sleep over this issue. The only important thing is that the kilt is made and fits well.

[Barb T]

The reverse pleat helps to keep the underapron from pulling on the pleats when you take a step. If there is no reverse pleat, every time you take a step, it pulls on the underfold of the last pleat. If there's a reverse pleat, the "give" comes in opening the reverse pleat instead. I always put one in.

[freddie]

Thanks guys. One of the kilts without the reverse pleat (and fairly shallow first pleat) was made by a very reputable Scottish kilt maker and I've found out that there is well in excess of eight yards of material in it. Instead of the reverse pleat the material is 'loose' where it should be, so it doesn't pull too badly when I walk. The area is well covered by the top apron and as my waist and seat measurements are very close the last pleat doesn't open too much either. The tartan is Buchanan and the pleating is immaculate, I remember buying my first Buchanan kilt when my waist size was smaller and the kilt maker saying "you'll need nine yards to pleat it" so maybe that would explain the discrepency, and I guess I shouldn't loose too much sleep over it. However, after wearing my older kilt (which was made by Raymond of Doune, Edinburgh) I do notice that something is missing.