Tartan Fabric-> ALL MAKERS!

[MacWage]

I am beginning to make my own kilts and would like to know good sources for tartan fabric, wool, blends, cotton, visc., (canvas?) etc.

I would like kilts in tartan with some in worsted wool, some cotton (for my Southern heritage), and some washable wool-esque stuff. A choice of REAL TARTANS is important to me. So far, all I can find are worsted or Scottish Weaver (of Charlotte, NC) 11 oz. cotton. Are there other options?

What companies sell it?
How much a yard?
Do they sell to non-pros?
Is it any good to decent weight kilts (compared to 16 oz wool)?
Does it pleat well?

Any assistance is GREATLY appreciated!!!!!!!!

[KiltedCodeWarrior]

Macwage, I may be mistaken, but you are asking much of the kiltmakers that post here. You are asking if they will share there sources of kilt material with an amateur/new competittor. I think that most would respond to polite, private inquiries about the source of a particular tartan, but you should be tracking down suppliers on your own if you are expecting to make kilts for sale.

I admit my opinions may be completely off-base since I am not a kilt maker, but they feel appropriate to me.

[MacWage]

NO! Not trying to be a competitor, just seeking help.
that's all!

If someone posted:
I work with a mill that makes great kilting blends. Email me and tell me what your looking for, I'll see what they have.

I'd be happy.

I know Matt (who I've met) and Bob Martin and Barb (whose books I have read) seem like great people who are encouragers of kiltmaking in general. I don't mean to insult or steal anything. Middleman brokers I can work though are fine. I like in the deep south. VERY FEW fabric stores here carry wool, PERIOD, much less wool that is kilt appropiate, fell and visually. I know of two. One in Abbeville, which has 2-4 tartan-ish wools and one in Gatsonia, NC (which is seasonal). Thus, I just don't have much access except by internet, which is difficult to impossible to feel the hand and look of a fabric or know if it has the right pull, is workable, or moves/swings right.

If kilts were in Polarfleece, I'd be in hog-heaven, but wool is virtually no where to be seen.

My intent is to learn from the vast knowledge on this forum and self ANY experienced kilt maker (of trad. or mod. kilts) is able or willing to help find real tartans in any kilt-appropriate materials besides worsted (which I can find plenty of).

THAT was my intent, nothing else. NOT to betray trade secrets. NOT to bypass anyone. NOT to "screw" anyone.

From the number of views, others are interested too.

So, is there anyone out there in this virtual realm that can help me find decent materials I can buy (through them even) so my home-made kilts are not embarrasing to other kiltwearers.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

[herminator]

I buy my tartans here:

http://www.martonmills.com/index.htm

[KiltedCodeWarrior]

Macwage, I was not trying to be too strong. I just was not sure of your intent. One problem you might run into is that most kilt makers are ordering tartan in larger quantities than I would expect an individual could handle for just one kilt. I know that some of the posts have referenced multiple 10's of meters for an order. Fairly costly, and you would have quite a bit left over, unless you wanted 8 kilts in the same tartan. Might work if your weight fluctuates drastically!

I think that LochCarron might have some smaller leftovers as well, but don't have the link off hand. The Celtic Croft, see link at top of the page, right hand side, also weaves their own tartan and they offer it for sell in managable quantities.

Also, Matt can get single kilt quantities in almost any tartan, maybe you can work something with him.

Good luck!

[Colin]

Also try Fraser & Kirkbirght they do the Xmarks tartan and Gordon is a member here. http://www.wooltartans.com/tartans5.htm and their US site http://www.thescottishweaver.com/

The remenants section is updated monthly and has a lot of good finds for the DIY kilter.

For the record, must of us know the majority of sources used by the kiltmakers, so they are not having to reveal any sources that have not already been brought out into the open numerous times. If a company has a source ththat has not been mentioned numerous times, it is their choice to reveal it or not.

[HeathBar]

Also try Fraser & Kirkbirght they do the Xmarks tartan and Gordon is a member here. http://www.wooltartans.com/tartans5.htm
The remenants section is updated monthly and has a lot of good finds for the DIY kilter.

I'm sending off a check today for some of the MacDougal tartan in their remnants list. It is 16oz with a 10" sett, for $16CAD/$14USD a meter.
Yes, the jonesing has started and the check isn't even in the mail.

Gordon does respond quickly to emails.

[way2fractious]

You have not mentioned your chosen tartans, but most common ones can be had fairly easily. I have ordered twice from The Scottish Weaver wool remnant page, and also ordered kilt lengths of two cotton tartan fabrics. Their product and service are very good. Scottish importers are a very good source for tartan. Besides the featured supporters of the board, two that come to mind immediately (because I've used them) are: Linda Clifford and The Kilt & Thistle (at www.kilts.com). Probably any Scottish shop would be happy to order you a kilt length. Go to any Highland Games and visit the vendor booths. Most of the kiltmakers I've seen have a shelf in the back with folded fabric, or they will be happy to order whatever you wish.

Be prepared to pay a hefty price for quality tartan; it is produced by the mills under license. Individuals pay full-bore price - I've seen as high as $95/yd recently, and as low as $55/yd before that. Knock-offs are cheaper, but not the real thing.

I have purchased various fabrics on eBay - some of which was useable for kilts, and some of which turned out not to be. Occasionally, real tartan turns up on eBay.

One key to acquiring the material you want is: patience. For an individual seeking the right material, in the right length, at the right price, a waiting-and-watching game must sometimes be played.

Obviously, worsted wool tartan with its "hard finish" works best for kilts, according to tradition and the instructions in Barb's book. But I have seen some plain weave wool that is also just fine. The techniques used to make cotton tartans into kilts differ from wool tartans because cotton cannot be "shaped" the way wool can.

Kiltmaking is like everything else in life - practice, practice, practice - with the first attempts usually not suitable for public display. Go slow, first try a few pieces on inexpensive materials, invest some time in your "learning curve," spend an inordinate amount of time on X Marks the Scot reading all the previous posts in the kiltmaker section, enjoy the journey.

Before you know it you will be hopelessly addicted...
:rolleyes:

[MacWage]

Macwage, I was not trying to be too strong. I just was not sure of your intent. One problem you might run into is that most kilt makers are ordering tartan in larger quantities than I would expect an individual could handle for just one kilt. I know that some of the posts have referenced multiple 10's of meters for an order. Fairly costly, and you would have quite a bit left over, unless you wanted 8 kilts in the same tartan. Might work if your weight fluctuates drastically!

I think that LochCarron might have some smaller leftovers as well, but don't have the link off hand. The Celtic Croft, see link at top of the page, right hand side, also weaves their own tartan and they offer it for sell in managable quantities.

Also, Matt can get single kilt quantities in almost any tartan, maybe you can work something with him.

Good luck!

The small quantities is one reason I am seeking for people who have remnants (sp?). I have tried the 4 yard box pleat kilts favored by kilt experts and frequent wearers Newsome and Martin. For such, I only need 2 yards of double width (56-60 inches) fabric. I am interested in various tartans, especially of the price is right. I am looking for a royal blue and red tartan, as well as a red and navy one (to go with my Atlanta Braves and reproduction mid-late 50s Atlanta Crackers baseball jerseys -> Yes, the Crackers was a real team, which won 22 championships from 1895-1965, the best record in the minors and second -only to those Yankees- best in all baseball. It was also the ONLY attempt to integrate the Southern Association league-in 1954, against the law in many states, - and played the first inter-racial games in the segregated states in 1949, in a direct challenge to the grand dragon of the Klan, who threatened to blow up the ballpark, WINNING 1 of 3 exhibition games against Robinson and the Brooklyn Dodgers. But enough about that . . .). There are several must have clan tartans and number of other I would like due to high respect for friends, historical persons, and miitary units, and some that I simply think are pretty.

(If anyone has a random 2 yards laying around I may like, send a private message.)

ALL my kilts are for personal joy and I direct interest to other MUCH more experienced makers, especially those who have helped me improve my own skills.

Thanks to any and all links to sellers of remnants! THIS IS GREAT! (and my intent)

[Barb T]

Hi folks

Speaking as a kiltmaker, I'm happy to share sources of tartan. I can't imagine why someone would want to keep that kind of thing secret.

It is true that buying tartan from Scottish mills is not always easy if you are a retail customer, but there are some mills that will sell readily to individuals. D.C. Dalgliesh is one of those, and they weave beautiful tartan. Much of what they have is either in dress or reproduction (weathered) colors, and in 11-12 oz (a very nice weight for a light kilt). I'm in California right now, but, when I get home, I can post contact info for Dalgliesh. They now have email and take credit cards (something new for them!), but they don't have a web site. I can also post a list of tartans that they carry.

To be honest, I've been disappointed with Fraser and Kirkbright's tartan. Yes, it's less expensive than Scottish tartan, but, to my mind, it has lots of problems. I'm in the middle of making kilts from the XMarks tartan that they wove, and the selvedge isn't perfect enough for kilting (at least in my opinion - the turned threads at the selvedge bleeds the color and makes half of the white stripe a muddy blue in the XMarks tartan). I've used other tartans from their mill that also don't have kilting selvedges. Having said that, thought, this isn't an enormous problem, because you could easily put a hem in the kilt.

Far more serious is the fact that the XMarks tartan is woven in double width and the two halves _do not match_ in the size of the sett. In fact, from the selvedge to the center, one half is almost 3/8" bigger than the other, so you have to fudge the join. I made a kilt years ago from tartan woven by Fraser and Kirkbright's predecessor, and the tartan had the same problem, and I was hoping that the new owners would fix the problem, but this evidently hasn't happened.

And the XMarks tartan is supposed to be 14 oz, but it doesn't have the substantial feel of 14 oz Lochcarron or House of Edgar tartan, and there are visible spaces between the threads. It's almost as if the thread isn't quite heavy enough for the number of threads per inch chosen for the weave.

Anyway. if anyone wants links to other mills for Scottish tartan, I'm happy to provide them, but they will likely sell to you at retail prices.

Cheers,

Barb