New Kilt

**M_Beorn** · 21st February 09, 04:32 PM

Rocky

What's your lead time for a 5 yd Edzell?

Also, how is the 5 yd different from the premier? I understand that the premier uses 8-9 yds, does this mean more pleats or are they deeper/thinner?

Thanks!

**RockyR** · 21st February 09, 06:53 PM

Premier is 8 yards, invisible stitching (pleats sewn inside out), pleats steeked and scalloped, horsehair lining handsewn in as well as a cotton lining. Labor time: 20 - 24 hours

5 Yard wool is top stitched, less material and not lined... saves about 15 hours of labor.

Current lead time is about 8 weeks.

**Nighthawk** · 21st February 09, 07:18 PM

Originally Posted by RockyR

Premier is 8 yards, invisible stitching (pleats sewn inside out), pleats steeked and scalloped, horsehair lining handsewn in as well as a cotton lining. Labor time: 20 - 24 hours

5 Yard wool is top stitched, less material and not lined... saves about 15 hours of labor.

Current lead time is about 8 weeks.

Are the five yarders steeked?

**RockyR** · 22nd February 09, 06:49 AM

No, they don't need to be. Steeking only needs to be done on a kilt that has had the internal material scalloped out (cut away). It's done to reinforce the structural integrity of the garment, since the deepest part of the pleat has no material 'above it' (been cut out) and would otherwise droop over time.

Since our 5 yarders do not have the material cut out (since it's not too bulky in the waistband, it doesn't need to be cut out), we don't need to steek them. The entire depth of the pleat is supported by being sewn together in the waistband area.

It's easier to physically show someone on a kilt than explain in typing. I hope this made sense.