Pleating to the stripe or sett

**Matt Richards** · 29th July 13, 06:49 PM

I'm really interested in ordering my first USA Kilt. I was wondering though, on the casual kilt, can I choose whether the pleats are to the stripe or sett? I noticed it's not one of the options when ordering, but I've seen different pleating styles one ones ordered from the site being shown off here. Thanks!

**gwynng** · 29th July 13, 11:32 PM

Very much depends on the tartan. Most of my kilts are pleated to the sett, but largely because I have purchased them as-is and not because I custom ordered them that way. My one bespoke kilt is to the sett though. I have really started liking the stripe and the kilts I have made for myself I've pleated to the stripe.

One of the nice things about pleating to the stripe is there is the opportunity with some tartans to have a flash of color or light or dark when the pleats open up as you walk. Depending on the tartan it can be quite dramatic. I have a Douglas Grey (aka Hamilton Grey) that I made and pleated to the black and darker grey bar, so when I walk the pleats flash to the light grey inside, which I very much like.

Both methods have their advantages though. The sett pleating, when done well is very impressive.

**BCAC** · 30th July 13, 12:04 AM

Originally Posted by gwynng

Very much depends on the tartan. Most of my kilts are pleated to the sett, but largely because I have purchased them as-is and not because I custom ordered them that way. My one bespoke kilt is to the sett though. I have really started liking the stripe and the kilts I have made for myself I've pleated to the stripe.

One of the nice things about pleating to the stripe is there is the opportunity with some tartans to have a flash of color or light or dark when the pleats open up as you walk. Depending on the tartan it can be quite dramatic. I have a Douglas Grey (aka Hamilton Grey) that I made and pleated to the black and darker grey bar, so when I walk the pleats flash to the light grey inside, which I very much like.

Both methods have their advantages though. The sett pleating, when done well is very impressive.

Gywnng, I think that Matt was just asking if it was possible to choose (between set and stripe pleating) when ordering a casual kilt from Rocky at USA Kilts.

I don't know how much tartan is in a USAK Casual, (maybe there's not enough to pleat to the stripe?).

I'm sure that Rocky will be along soon enough to give you the information that you need and to answer your question, Matt.

**TheOfficialBren** · 30th July 13, 01:47 AM

My Holyrood casual is pleated to the white stripe, exactly as I would have chosen if the option to choose were available.

**tulloch** · 30th July 13, 05:33 AM

The casual has less yardage so their options are more limited. Depends on the sett I think. Ask Rocky.

**RockyR** · 30th July 13, 05:41 AM

Originally Posted by Matt Richards

I'm really interested in ordering my first USA Kilt. I was wondering though, on the casual kilt, can I choose whether the pleats are to the stripe or sett? I noticed it's not one of the options when ordering, but I've seen different pleating styles one ones ordered from the site being shown off here. Thanks!

Thanks to all those who jumped in to help answer the question.

To answer it directly, no, you don't get a choice on our Casual, Semi Traditional or 5 Yard kilts. You can make a REQUEST how you want it pleated, but we won't guarantee that we can do it. Some of the PV cloth we use for our Casual and Semi Trads has a smaller sett size (4.5"), which means we'll pleat it to the true sett. Some of the tartans have a 5.5" to 6" sett size, which means we typically pleat it to the stripe. We have an 'approximate yardage' we like to use for each kilt, so the sett size and the width of each pleat plays a factor in how the kilt is pleated to make sure it has enough cloth to hang and swing nicely, but not "too much" (where we'd have to raise prices to cover extra material costs).

In the same vein, we've had people ask for a tartan with a small sett size to be pleated to stripe. In this instance, we usually turn them down (after providing a full explanation) as the pleats would be too shallow and not swing properly. Others have insisted that a tartan with a large sett HAD to be pleated to the sett to match their pipe band. We were able to accommodate them by charging a bit extra for the extra yardage the kilt used (beyond what we typically used in that model).

In our 8 Yard Premier kilt, we have enough cloth to be able to pleat the kilt either way (sett or stripe) without compromise to quality or price, so we DO give the customer the option for that model.

I hope these answers help!