I am attempting to make my first knife pleated kilt after some sucess with my X-marks box pleat. I am using 12 ounce duck with a pattern of 3.75" depth with a 1.5" reveal. I laid out my pattern with the 3.75+the 1.5 and am pleating where sum of the 2 measurements fall. Is this right or should I have allowed for 2x the 3.75 depth + the reveal? I just ran out of pins so this is a good point to stop and ask instead of waiting until I have 30 pleats pinned and pressed in.