Eisenhower - 1940's Battle Jacket for kilt.

[brewerpaul]

This past December I decided to take on a project for myself and sew an Eisenhower style or Battle Jacket. The Eisenhower jacket has been discussed on Xmarks from time to time because it is a short waist jacket that goes nicely with the kilt. There are reproductions and vintage jackets available but I usually run into size issues when I look at jackets. I wear a 37 inch arm measured from neck center to cuff, most people are 35 or less in sleeve length. This has always been an issue for me when I buy jackets, sweaters or shirts. I've seen patterns for the Eisenhower style jacket around the internet and decided to pick up a 1940's jacket pattern which includes a regular length jacket and a Battle Jacket.

Pattern from EvaDress Patterns
http://www.evadress.com/3969.html

All is nice and easy if you can take a pattern and just cut in sew but no such luck with me. A 1940's 44 size is no where near my 2016 44 size and arm length. Thank goodness I have taken some classes on pattern adjustment and fitting which allowed me to custom fit the pattern to my arms and torso. Here are a few of the modifications to the basic pattern.
1-Add one inch to the back for shoulder movement
2-Add 3 inches (that's right 3) to the arm length
3-Add two inches length to front and back pieces for my longer torso
4-Take 1/2 inch off each shoulder (broken both collar bones so shoulders are a bit narrower than a pattern is)
5-Add inch to collar pieces and waist band
6-Add more drop to arm hole for range of motion
7-Slash and add one inch to sleeve diameter at shoulder
8-Make full length lining instead of half lining called for by the pattern
9-Add welt pockets instead of the single breast pocket

These modifications were made and 2-3 muslin mock-ups were sewn together before I ever cut my fabric. Once I had my pattern made I was ready to work. For the outer fabric I used vintage jacket weight charcoal grey wool tweed with a blue, red and orange pastel warp threads for accent. The lining is olive green and grey cotton flannel from JoAnns. The front and back, collar, cuffs and waist band are interfaced with Pellon HC120 fusible hair interface that gives great body and drape. The sleeves have plackets like a shirt would and I used buttons as opposed to zippers. I had to be a bit imaginative when I put it all together, due to the full length lining, and did quite a bit of hand work to finish it out. All in all the jacket fits great, has great range of motion, has a nice drape and is of a length that works with the kilt.

Below are some photos of this project showing 3 different looks. First intent was a kilt jacket and I feel I achieved that quite nicely. The jacket sits just above the sporran and covers the upper kilt not allowing a shirt to show. The other two examples are in my English Breeks and some wide leg tweed trousers.

Jacket hanging waiting to be worn.


Kilt from the front (I will do a write of of the kilt when I can get brighter photos of it, it is a new Bonnie Heather Green kilt and is phenomenal)


Jacket from behind with kilt, the tartan is the Knockando Woolen Mills tartan. Excuse the bit of sweater hanging out of the back, it was a cold day.


Yeah trousers, no tomatoes thrown please


Buttoned up with a nice custom fit


In my Breeks


One last shot in the Breeks


I think I nailed the fit fairly well thanks to some great classes Jennifer and I have taken on pattern fitting



I really like this jacket and have worn it often. The fit is fantastic because it is made for me, the drape and feel is just right and it looks quite classy. It is a bit of an intermediate to advanced level sew but well worth the challenge to make yourself a fine Eisenhower style jacket to wear with your kilt.

[MNlad]

Very nicely done. I especially like your choice of fabric and the Ike waist treatment. One trim looking jacket.

[Destin_scot]

well executed....very nice

[Riverkilt]

Great work. You are much more talented than this olde bird....had to get my Ike jacket store bought.

[Todd Bradshaw]

Excellent job and a skillful adaptation where needed. A+

[kiltedcontractor]

Amazing job. It must be very pleasing each time you put it on to know you made it! As someone who makes things, I absolutely love hand made items.

[SeumasA]

Great looking jacket. Unfortunately my skill with a needle and thread is limited to replacing the occasional button.

[Spartan Tartan]

You made that for yourself? Fantastic. I'm blown away. Very nicely done.

Did I mention that I'm a 44R?

[James Hood]

Paul, the jacket looks great, your skill is greatly admired.

Good on you, may you enjoy the jacket in splendid health for many years.

[Truitt]

Wow! Very nice work. I sometimes wear a WWII style bomber jacket with my kilt, but a tweed Eisenhower jacket would be much nicer.