Finished my first X-Kilt

[CavScout19D]

This is my first completed attempt at making a X-Kilt. This is after I washed it to remove the tailor chalk marks. I need to press it out better. Please offer a critique good, bad or in between I don't care. I am looking for honest thoughts before I tackle another one. I want to improve.
mykilt1.jpg mykilt2.jpg mykilt3.jpg mykilt4.jpg

[Lady Grey]

Well done!
Add more Molle... I like Molle and it gives you more options.

[Tarheel]

Yes, by all means press the kilt. Did you treat with a stain block?

The camera angle is awkward for me but the third photo seems to give the best view. I like the front apron size and material color and believe that will be best during the life of the kilt.

[Andrew Breecher]

The kilt looks great! My only comment is that the equipment straps (MOLLE) are tighter around your hips than the kilt is. If the straps feel nice and snug, then for your next kilt I'd reduce the hip measurement so it matches that. If the straps are too tight, then you should make them looser next time. Otherwise, the kilt looks awesome!

[ratspike]

Congrats on finishing your first one! It fits and you can wear it, so that alone is a big win. My first kilt was an unmitigated disaster, so you're doing great out of the blocks.

The only real nit I can see to pick is that it does look a bit big in the hips. Notice the way the fabric is a little bunchy looking above the MOLLE webbing? Also, the shower-curtainy look to the pleats is another indication that you've got more fabric than backside. IMO the effect is more pronounced with box pleats than knife pleats. Nobody who's not a kilt nerd will notice though, so don't even sweat it.

Some additional observations:
In the third photo there's something strange going on with the reverse pleat and it's making the aprons kick out. My guess is that the fabric is just a little bunchy, and that when everything is smoothed out it's fine.

Good looking pockets, and big props for the pleats on the edge as well. That pleat makes the pockets much more functional. I'd be inclined to make the pocket flaps a little wider/taller/whatever, so that it can still be secured with the pocket stuffed full.

I might arrange the belt loops a little differently. While I was still making kilts I was surprised at how particular a lot of my customers were about their belt loops. Double loops at center back always, and a minimum of one at each side in addition to the loops on the apron. Adding additional loops wasn't uncommon. It's stuck with me and I do my own kilts the same way, even thought I never wear a belt.

The stitching on your MOLLE webbing looks great! Did you use a tight zigzag or a straight stitch? Did you go with velcro or a buckle to fasten the apron, or is the belt holding it up? Also, I forget if we ever talked about color matching but thank you for not using black d rings. Having been there and done that when I didn't know better, it just hurts my soul to see black hardware, webbing, or thread used where it doesn't belong.

tl;dr
You made your first kilt! It's a bit big 'round the hips but it looks rad and you should wear it proudly. We're all looking forward to kilt #2!

[CavScout19D]

Thank you all for the compliments and words of encouragement.

I really want to thank ratspike for his time and advice.

My belly button/waist measurement is 38" and my rump measurement is 40".

I got the advice from a different member that two inches difference between butt and waist in a casual kilt is irrelevant and that A-shaping of the aprons should have taken up at least half of that so I didn't bother tapering the pleats. I guess I didn't do something quite right. Any advice on tapering is greatly appreciated.

The MOLLE I just laid it straight across the rump and fastened it at the edges of the first pleats. I stitched it down first with a straight stitch and then used the bar tack on my machine setting set at about 1.5.

I used both velcro and a strap and buckle on the waist. The velcro is on the left side to help keep the waist together while putting o the kilt. On the right side is a webbing strap and buckle (you can see the excess in the third photo; I forgot to tuck it in).

The next kilt I'm making (which is actually the first one I started, I became a little frustrated with and set aside) I'm doing knife pleats and again adding MOLLE. Any thoughts and advice are greatly appreciated. Here is a photo of it so far:

kilt4.jpg

[Alan H]

You did it. It's completely wearable. WIN

You learned a bunch in the process. WIN

Carry on!

[cajunrph]

The kilt looks good. Great first try. I'm sure once it's pressed it will look outstanding. Best of luck on the next one.

[Pleater]

I think that there is a need to differentiate size from shape - just because waist and hip measurements are almost the same doesn't mean that you are cylindrical.

If you consider the fitting of the kilt as two parts, a back with pleats which needs to be fitted into the small of the back at waist height and sewn so as to expand smoothly downwards until the pleats can fall straight from the widest part, forming the fell, and a front, which is made to fall smoothly from the waistband, then that normally engineers the right shape.

With your kilt there is the additional element of the pockets on a tight band at hip level, which is drawing the aprons back against the body - when they usually fall free and straight. Perhaps raising the level of the band a little would make for easier fitting.

Anne the Pleater