Green Cotton Duck X-Kilt

**Nimbus** · 25th August 14, 01:56 PM

Ok, this is now my 9th x-kilt I've crafted, borrowing and improving on ideas with each one.
What I have here is a Cotton Duck X-Kilt, Reverse Kingussie, with a riveted fell line, and anorak snaps. I borrowed snap placement liberally from Utilikilts, who I helped sell for at the Dublin Irish Festival in Dublin Ohio. In addition to cargo pockets, I hid a small wallet/phone pocket under the apron using the pleat of the under apron and a snap closure.
IMG_20140825_161241.jpg
First is the finished Kilt in Green. It was originally Light Blue, but after some consideration I used some Dark Green RIT dye in the washer to get it to a more comfortable tone.

IMG_20140821_184212.jpg IMG_20140821_184225.jpg
Here is the pocket I put into the under apron, for those extra awkward moments when I reach into my crotch to get my wallet.

I wish I could get the photo to rotate properly on this board...
Additional photos of my kilts are here.
http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...ts-rock-83697/
I couldn't figure out how to navigate to that exact forum from the main screen, and this seemed a more appropriate place to continue posting my projects.

C&C is welcome and encouraged. Thank you.

**ratspike** · 25th August 14, 03:34 PM

I like what you did with the under apron pocket. I do a patch pocket roughly in the middle of the under apron but your design is cooler.

You might consider sewing closer to the edges of the pleats. IMO it looks a little neater, and along the fell you won't have those flappy edges where the pleats are sewn down. I use a 1/16" compensating foot, which is just a guide to make sure my stitching is straight and an even 1/16" from the edge. When I still sewed with domestic machines I used a blind hem foot, which worked great.

If you've got more kilts in the pipeline you might pick up a bias tape maker for your belt loops. It's a huge time saver, dead simple to use, and will let you ditch the zig zag down the center. I have a 1" and 2", which gives me .5" and 1" belt loops. I think they were maybe 4 bucks each.

**Nimbus** · 25th August 14, 04:27 PM

I really should look into some better feet. But then, It was a struggle getting my poor cheap Brother to chew through this canvas as it was. I need to find me an old Singer that can go through flesh and bone like my girlfriend does my pay checks... I will be looking for that bias tape maker though.

**ratspike** · 25th August 14, 06:33 PM

Yeah, it can be a challenge for sure. What size needle were you using? A 14 or 16 jeans needle can make a big difference. It's possible you can use generic low or high shank feet with your Brother too.

Old mechanical sewing machines are completely full of win. You generally get a lot of presser foot height and they're tough as nails. I have a couple of old mechanicals that I keep around for when I need to bar tack, or if I just don't feel like using the Juki. They're fun to sew with, but since vintage "industrial strength" and "heavy duty" machines are so popular it can be tough to find one for a reasonable price. I paid $225 for my Singer 401a, but I got my Juki for $300. It's pretty nuts.

**Nimbus** · 25th August 14, 08:22 PM

I was using a jeans heavy duty needle. After snapping the last of my generic needles on some fairly good bottomweight, I knew i needed a better set of needles. However I think this poor thing is losing tension somewhere, as my backside stitching likes to catch and make a complete and utter mess that I have to rip out, reseat all my thread, and start over on that line. And lets not talk about bar tacks. My machine just does a terrible bar tack. Which is why I started using rivets. It's simpler to just spend 15$ and hammer them in than it is to have to go back and fix a bar tack every couple of weeks. Plus I kind of like the studded look. I was a crow in another life I think.

**Hawk** · 25th August 14, 09:42 PM

Well done... That's looking pretty sharp......

If you were at the Dublin Fest, you probably got to meet Lisa the chairwoman that came around and visited Rocky.....friend of the family and she said the booth was well presented....

Hawk