X-kilt under Apron Pleat help

[Mac-Attack]

First off Alan, THNX for the manual! great stuff! I have been using my periodic breaks from schoolwork this past week to make my first kilt, and am so close to completing!

(I had this post originally under the manual download thread, but felt it was inappropriate placing as this isn't a question about downloading the manual)

Just some relevant b/g
Rump: 39, Waste: 33 Drop: 22 3/4
You instruction were concise enough that when I measured the kilt, the Rump/waist matched exactly! for those interested I used 15' apron, 8x3" pleats

BUT... (and anyone can jump in here)

Stuck in my X-kilt (I have seen the question asked but never a complete answer) as to the deep under apron pleat? I cannot make out what is meant in section "Tack Down the Top of the Outer Apron" pg 25:
"...Fold back about 2.5 – 3 inches, down at the hem, and make a nice even fold on that deep pleat all the way up to the waistband. It will get deeper as you approach the waistband,..."

(OK so I know that we will not be using the full deep pleat now, but I cannot visualize [in my mind or using my kilt] how to go about performing this?) Was considering just running a thread line across the waistband with the top edge of the pleat so that I could continue (and make an edge line in the under-pleat as done on all the other inner-pleats)... but figured I'd ask the forum before making a kilt SNAFU.

Below is what I have (THe yellow box of pins is the "right" side/edge of the over-apron as you are looking from the inside)

[sydnie7]

It looks as if you have already formed the deep under-apron pleat. The reason it would be deeper at the top is because you have [probably] made the apron an A-shape. If the edge of the apron were straight up and down, the pleat would be the same width top to bottom. But if the top of the apron is narrower than the bottom, then the under-pleat will be wider at the top to compensate/match.

So hard to describe, so easy to see it in my mind's eye!

BTW You'll find that the inner folded edge of under-pleat tends to hang down below the hem of apron. At the same time, the upper edge of pleat may not come up high enough to be caught in waistband seam and you may need to "lift" it upward and pin it in place as you pin the waistband on. I can just see at the top of your photo that the upper edge of pleat doesn't match the upper edge of apron, so it looks as if you have done this correctly so far!

[Mac-Attack]

sydnie7,
Yes, the top of the pleat falls below the waistband a tad, but I think it will be caught by the it when I trial tested this morning (I did my belt loops first on the machine after ironing the waistband and belt loops material... after the zig-zag of the loops, I then tried to run a line for the waistband, only to realize I zig zagged 6 inches... had to walk away at my stupidity... seam ripper task tonight). As for the bottom though, I do notice the selvedge of the underpleat dropping below the apron hem slightly (but it could be the way I have it on the table as well. Tonight/tomorrow morning I will have the waistband and belt loops attached and will upload pics of the finished product. (I did run a line of thread on the inner pleat edge, hoping it will partially deter the poofing yet still provide the modesty.

Thnx for the clarification. I just wasn't certain how the instructions were to read on that part.

[Eleazar]

Love the material!

Where did you find it?

[Pleater]

I don't use the X kilt instructions, but I think what I devised is basically the same idea - to achieve visually similar results. There is no wrong or right way to make any garment - usually you have a range of options from which to select the one which will work for what you are creating/altering/repairing at that moment. For me that has ranged from microscopic stitching to gaffer tape.

At the edge of the apron I fold the edge into itself - making a W at the waist edge.

I allow the inner V to slide lower than the outer \ and / at the top, so I can pull the vertical edge of the apron out so it is wider at the bottom - the shaping is all done close to the top so the lower edge is actually on the straight grain of the cloth. It is the same sort of idea as making a waist dart on a normal garment, but the fabric is then folded back on the line of stitching.

The under apron pleat, when folded straight, usually shows a slim triangle at the hem, and on my it tends to roll outwards too. It does on many people. To resolve both problems I lift the inner fold of the pleat at the waistline, so moving the slender triangle of cloth from being visible at the hem to being invisible in the waistband.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[Mac-Attack]

@Elizear I've had the material for about 5 months now and got it at Jo-Anns. It was the closest they had to what I think was useable for they didn't carry any tweed and wasn't ready for denim (my poor sewing machine). I have no idea what type of material it is now though. I'll have to see if I still have the receipt (I have to go to Jo-Anns today anyway, I'll see if they still carry it).

@Anne, thnx for the advice, Yes I am not new to sewing (I've made plenty of my kids costumes and hemmed a few of my wife's pants), but pleats are a first for me and didn't want to walk around with a big poof, or unwanted kilt faux pas. My next one will definitely not be a stock xkilt as I can see variations already. Just wanted to get my basics honed. I'll keep the "W" idea in mind as I already have the underpleat sewn and waistband on. If my lower underpleat line still falls below the apron hem, I might just hem the underpleat a tad, we'll see

ALL, (yes I am already thinking of my next one) and am wondering what is more appropriate. I am looking into making a 2 tone kilt based on either Green/Gold or Scarlet/Grey color schemes, and wondering what looks best, the dark on top light inside (pleats) or reverse?

[Pleater]

Apparently sewing a small turnup is the traditional way to deal with the edge showing, but I did not know that when I started making kilts, so I did what I thought.

Beware, though, it can become addictive and any nice piece of fabric will immediately be sized up - is it enough for a kilt.....

I'd always go the the surprise effect, the brighter colour inside the pleat - but it depends on the tone of some colours - could be either way with green and gold.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[Mac-Attack]

haha Anne, yes I have been looking at more options for kilts... but I already get the look over from my wife (no.. not the "I want to ravish you" look, but quite the opposite... BUT she does appreciate that I can do pleats... wonder if she has somethign in mind for herself? I do have leftovers hehe), and my kids don't seem too thrilled either. Also with my studies, I don't have a lot of free time. Below are shots of my kilt this morning... pre-wash and pre-ironing. Just grabbed the first black belt I had (sorry don't have a nice 2 1/4" one yet) had the find the mirror... after I get it washed and ironed out, I'll have one of my kids take a pic to post.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6165/...8a72821dbe.jpg

[buellboy492]

Well done Mac-Attack! I started with X-Kilts too, and have progressed to traditional, but my young sons still prefer the look and fit of the X-Kilt, with a reverse kingussie pleating arrangement. Kiltmaking is big time-eater for me. Hope you do well in your studies. I will refrain from making any disparaging remarks about Ohio State, though it hurts me to do so. My maize-n-blue blood, y'know.

[Mac-Attack]

HAHAHA it is funny you say that, as my youngest daughter's favorite color is Blue, and her Basketball team color is blue, and she and I both agree... we will never say Go Bl.e. (She is a huge OSU fan as well @ 13). For your sons, stick with X-kilts, as they grow you don't want to spend the expense on traditionals yet just to upgrade every year or 2. As for the PM I received from people, here is a better snapshot of the material I used, and I got it at Jo-Anns (had a 40% off coupon for it... bought 7 yards... but didn't need that much, so guess I might make a vest? or will a vest in the same pattern be cheesy?)