Best thread for sewing leather?

[HippieLee]

Is "Irish waxed linen thread" such as found here: http://www.royalwoodltd.com/cat14-17ar.htm
suitable and practical for leather projects? They have a wonderful array of colors but I want thread that will last and I simply don't know what it should be. Is the x-ply rating just the thickness? I'm assuming a 2 ply would be more suited to a smaller stitch, lighter item (say a fancy wallet) while a 3 or 4 or more ply would be better for holding together a sporran or knife sheath?

So far the only thing I've used is the brown and black waxed thread from Tandy. But that's the only colors they have (well, and a natural/white I guess). No idea what that's made of but I can tell the brown I used on my ID badge holder for work is already faded. Maybe that's a problem with all of them...

thanks!
HL

edit to add~ I mean for hand-stitching if that makes a difference...

[StevieR]

Four ply waxed linen thread is eminently suitable for leatherwork. I'm just getting started (no points for guessing what I am aiming to be skilled enough to make!) but had a watch strap made a year ago that was built with this thread and can report that the hand stitching is still in excellent condition. The stitches are tiny, so you don't need to worry about two ply. Have a look here - http://toshi-straps.co.uk - all about watch straps, but very informative none the less.

[HippieLee]

Great, thanks! Those are nice straps - which is cool because watch straps are on my project list too lol...

[HarveyH]

The linen threads you describe are probably fine. But you need to be aware that the number of strands in the ply does not necessarily indicate how thick the overall thread is, or necessarily how strong the thread is. The thickness of the individual strands of thread is related to how fine the yarn is spun - so you can have 4ply of very fine yarn which is thinner than a 2ply of a more thickly spun yarn. This is why you will see that the overall length of a particular weight of thread is also given. More traditionally thread are described by 2 numbers 10/2 or 30/4. the first number relates to the thickness of the individual threads and the second number to the number of threads in the ply. The higher the first number - the thinner the yarn which has been used.

The standardisation of hand spun yarn to a specific measure was done by winding the yarn on a wheel to a specific number of turns and then measuring the weight of this standard length. A common quality was 12 times 120 turns which was equal to 3600 yards of yarn to the lb. (pound). A higher number, say 30 times 120 turns, would equate to 9000 yards to a 1 lb which obviously means a much finer yarn.

So a 12/2 linen thread would be a 2ply of a thicker yarn where an 30/3 would be a three ply of a much finer yarn and the 3 ply would be a thinner thread.

Not quite straight forward, but worth bearing in mind when you are looking to buy thread.

[sydnie7]

The Royalwood threads look good, thanks for the link. Probably worth ordering their color chart, which includes various ply samples at the bottom, to suss out the weight issue that Harvey brings up.

[HippieLee]

Good idea - ordering sample chart now...

[artificer]

FWIW: I've abandoned the idea of linen thread in favor of poly.

I've done two repairs on practically new sporrans (less than a decade old) where the linen thread has rotted out after being caught in the rain- not an uncommon event at a Highland Games in our area of the country.
I also have a 3rd repair "on deck" to restitch another linen piece. Poly lasts a good long time - I've restrung my bamboo windchimes with it and it's lasted over 5 years of spring rains, summer sun, autumn winds, and brutally cold and snowy winters, with minimal wear or fading.

Obviously re-enactors or historical purists may wish to keep using linen for situational reasons.

ith:

[HippieLee]

Ahhh, yes this is info I need to know! Thank you sir. Are there poly brands/suppliers you'd recommend?

[vorpallemur]

FWIW: I've abandoned the idea of linen thread in favor of poly.

I've done two repairs on practically new sporrans (less than a decade old) where the linen thread has rotted out after being caught in the rain- not an uncommon event at a Highland Games in our area of the country.
I also have a 3rd repair "on deck" to restitch another linen piece. Poly lasts a good long time - I've restrung my bamboo windchimes with it and it's lasted over 5 years of spring rains, summer sun, autumn winds, and brutally cold and snowy winters, with minimal wear or fading.

Obviously re-enactors or historical purists may wish to keep using linen for situational reasons.

ith:

Nylon thread is generally preferred over polyester for leather work. I think the stretch of the thread better matches the leather. Poly is pretty immortal, though. Nylon will get destroyed by UV (which is usually not a concern with clothing.) Either are much cheaper than linen.

Linen thread should hold up pretty well. It needs to be good quality linen, and heavily waxed. Waxed linen thread is what boot soles were traditionally (and still is, for expensive stuff) sewn with. The thread is waxed with a hardening wax (typically using a heated wax pot in the thread path before the needle.), which waterproofs, and serves to keep the stitiching from coming undone when one stitch has a thread break. boot soles typically get worn down faster than the threads rot, even on boots that get used gently in wet conditions.

Also, note that traditional thread measures are different for different kinds of thread. When comparing, make sure that you're using the same system, or know the conversions, or have samples to compare directly.

[HarveyH]

Also, note that traditional thread measures are different for different kinds of thread. When comparing, make sure that you're using the same system, or know the conversions, or have samples to compare directly.

Yes indeed, my earlier comments as to length and weight relate specifically to linen.

I am also surprised to hear that linen thread has rotted in any short timeframe - decent waxed thread should last a long. time.

I am also told (a tip from Northern Ireland) that wiping linen thread over with "detol" disinfectant (essentially with phenol) acts a a decent preservative if you are really faced with damp conditions.