First time making kilt using The art of kiltmaking

[NPG]

I'm going to be making my first kilt and I had a few questions on material selection. I've noticed a number of people here using poly or non-wool materials for their first kilt. Is it recommended to start with a materials like this? If so, what is better to use Polyviscose, poly-cotton, or a poly-wool blend?

Is it easier to make a first kilt from a solid color? (I considered doing a saffron kilt), or is that a waste of time since I don't get experience with lining up the sett?

Thanks,
NPG

[plaid preacher]

I'm going to be making my first kilt and I had a few questions on material selection. I've noticed a number of people here using poly or non-wool materials for their first kilt. Is it recommended to start with a materials like this? If so, what is better to use Polyviscose, poly-cotton, or a poly-wool blend?

Is it easier to make a first kilt from a solid color? (I considered doing a saffron kilt), or is that a waste of time since I don't get experience with lining up the sett?

Thanks,
NPG

Hi there. An ambitious undertaking to make your first kilt. Well done. The Art of Kiltmaking provides wonderful instructions for making a woolen kilt, because of the natural characteristics of wool. It will not work the same for man-made fabrics as the construction of a traditional woolen kilt relies on the ability to stretch and skew the material by shrinking with heat and steam. So if you are going to use the book, then wool is your choice.

As for solid verses plaid, each has it's own advantages, I guess. A solid kilt will rely 100% on your measuring every pleat and making sure your lines are straight. Tartan fabric already has lines built in... there's still a lot of measuring, but it is not as hard as one might think. A whole field of solid fabric can start to look a little daunting.

I'm sure there are others, smarter than I, who will weigh in. But here's my 2 bits.

[NPG]

Much appreciated! I had seen all of the posts with people using non-wool materials I thought maybe that was the preferred starter material. But if it will not work as well using The Art of Kiltmaking method, then I will go with wool.

[Kristof]

I wouldn't say it's not working.

I made three poly-mix-something-kilts and it worked well. Plus: It's much less expensive if something goes wrong. To find out how it works, "plastic" is fine. Just make shure, it es tartan-woven (with the diagonal lines) and not plain woven.

[The Wizard of BC]

If you are contemplating using TAoK to make a kilt you are NOT making a practice kilt. The Book will give you the steps and techniques to produce a premium, heirloom quality traditional kilt.

But you do need to know something about hand stitching long before you ever buy any fabric or even open the book.

You MUST be proficient with a needle and thread. This is perhaps the most vital thing and the thing that is hardest to learn from a book. You must re-train your muscles and teach your eyes to stitch well.

If you want to practice I would suggest you go find an assortment of hand stitching needles. Some longer, some shorter. Some thicker and some thinner.
Then find two or three different styles of thimbles. The leather one in TAoK supliment, one worn over the end of your middle finger and one worn like a ring over the nail of your ring finger.
Find two or three 100 meter spools of good Gutterman 100% Polyester thread.
And then get some heavy weight fabric. Something about the weight and thickness of blue jean denim. In fact sacrifice an old pair of jeans.

Then sit down and practice pushing a needle through fabric. Do it over and over. The goal is to be able to sew through four layers of blue jean denim with bright, fire engine red thread and be able to make the stitches totally invisible.

Depending on your existing experience lever you may need to practice pushing a needle through fabric for a week to a month of sewing two hours a day.

Try as many different size needles as you can. Try different size and styles of thimbles. You will not know at the beginning which are best for you. You will only discover the best by doing it.

When and only when you can sew a perfectly straight fold of fabric onto another fold of fabric for over 12" and have totally invisible stitches should you open TAoK.

This is one of the things Barb and I learned at Kilt Kamp. Many students come to the Kamp with little experience and practice just pushing a needle through fabric. Many end up spending the vast majority of the 5 days just stitching their Fell Pleats. They never get to fringing aprons, installing interfacings and stabilizers or putting on waistbands. Many leave Kamp with unfinished kilts simply because they had to spend so much time just learning how to sew.

So, my advise - If you really want to make a quality, good looking kilt using the book - Learn how to sew.

[uncle remus]

when I was considering making my first kilt I was told by barb to buy the heaviest wool I could afford. she said it was easier to work with then any of the poly mixes that you find on the market.

[NPG]

So, my advise - If you really want to make a quality, good looking kilt using the book - Learn how to sew.

Wizard,

Thank you for the advice. In that regard is there a tutorial on hand stitching that you can recommend? While I have a little experience I doubt my experience is up to par of what you have described, so I will start practicing the hand stitching.

I wish I had head about Kilt Kamp, earlier that sounds like a great experience - maybe something to look forward to next year.

[KiltedKnome]

Wizard,

Thank you for the advice. In that regard is there a tutorial on hand stitching that you can recommend? While I have a little experience I doubt my experience is up to par of what you have described, so I will start practicing the hand stitching.

I wish I had head about Kilt Kamp, earlier that sounds like a great experience - maybe something to look forward to next year.

NPG, I googled "handsewing"and came across a number of good YouTube videos. This is just one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8Jn...FD161029912DB1

[NPG]

NPG, I googled "handsewing"and came across a number of good YouTube videos. This is just one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uceHU85Tzi4

Thanks, I had googled "Hand stitching tutorial" and it did not turn up as good of results.

[cadilhac]

NPG, I googled "handsewing"and came across a number of good YouTube videos. This is just one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uceHU85Tzi4

Indeed a very fine video, thanks! But could you please change your link to this one? The one you provide looks like a fraudulent reupload Thanks for the creator, whomever they are! :-)