Inverness Cape questions

[brewerpaul]

Greetings,

As winter is here I find my "sport fleece" jackets to be not as fitting to wear kilted as an Inverness cape might be. Ive long lived in jeans and Columbia or other brand fleece jackets and Gore-tex or some other version overcoat. For the kilt I plan to make an Inverness cape for the blustery days and nights of winter. My starting point is a pattern for the Sherlock Holmes (Simplicity 2517) style cape which I plan to modify quite a bit. For one thing, after looking at many images on Google Images, the cape portion is to short so it will be lengthened. The other issue is the pattern has long sleeves and it seems most the capes Ive viewed don't have sleeves. I plan for this to be an overjacket/cape for when I may have a kilt jacket or pullover sweater on. For this reason I plan to lengthen the cape portion to the appropriate length down the arms. My question is are most Inverness capes without sleeves? This can be easily done and a nice hand warmer pocket placed in the long portion of the cloak. Id like to make this cape as true as possible to an Inverness and if sleeves are not used I would like to go that way. Im using a heavy coat weight houndstooth wool for the outer fabric. I plan to possibly put a lightweight breathable water proof fabric between the outer fabric and inner lining. The lining will be a gaberdine or flannel wool for warmth. Any suggestions or ideas are appreciated as I know there are some great male and female tailors on this forum.


Ive got 10 yards of cheap cotton cloth to play around with and modify this pattern I just need to know if it would be more appropriate without the longer sleeves. I will adjust the body of the cloak and the cape length as needed to make sure it is not too long down the legs and long enough to cover my arms.

Thanks in advance Ill post photos as I work on this project.

[jhockin]

Although I haven't (yet) made an Inverness cape, I too have been researching them, and, from my reading they usually don't have sleeves. The cape should extend the length of your arms AND shoulders, from neckline to wrists. One post I read was using Butterick pattern # 3993 ( though I haven't personally checked it). There was also a former post, here on Xmarks, that was from, I think, something called "The Cutter's guide", which showed how to draw up your own pattern, to fit your measurements & included scanned copy of the draft pattern, to be adjusted to your specific measurements - and then instructions on how to make it.

[brewerpaul]

Although I haven't (yet) made an Inverness cape, I too have been researching them, and, from my reading they usually don't have sleeves. The cape should extend the length of your arms AND shoulders, from neckline to wrists. One post I read was using Butterick pattern # 3993 ( though I haven't personally checked it). There was also a former post, here on Xmarks, that was from, I think, something called "The Cutter's guide", which showed how to draw up your own pattern, to fit your measurements & included scanned copy of the draft pattern, to be adjusted to your specific measurements - and then instructions on how to make it.

Thanks, Ill check into prior post here. I looked at the Butterick pattern and it is similar to the Simplicity. They both need the cape lengthened and they both have sleeves. Ill stick with the pattern I have and modify from there. I agree the cape should come down the length of the arms to the wrist to make it look appropriate. Again thanks for your response.....

[Destin_scot]

There is also the Recreating History: Inverness Cape pattern that you could look at.
I bought the pattern and it has a discussion of the evolution of the overcoat from the tight fitting overcoats
through to our modern suits.

Seems like a fairly decent pattern to use. I've even found some decent wool coating to use, (2 types, a subtle dark grey glenn plaid for around $5.00 per yard and a black and grey herring bone pattern for around $9.00 per yard), when I can get around to actually making the capes.

[ForresterModern]

post removed---forgot I was in the DIY section--folks who like to do it themselves.

[piperdbh]

Paul,
I've made two of the Butterick 3993 capes, one in green corduroy and the other in Harris tweed. The cape portion does not need to be lengthened, and omitting the sleeves is very easy. I haven't seen the Simplicity pattern you have, but it probably doesn't need much modification. The hardest part about making an Invernes is sewing through the collar, because there are several layers of fabric there. You can do it.

[Pleater]

I cheat with the collar, sewing the cape to one side, the coat to the other, using the sewing machine, then sewed the slot closed by hand.

The Simplicity pattern is for an overcoat with a short cape, not an Inverness cape, and would need quite a bit of alteration to make one from it. I suggest looking at the Butterick pattern

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[brewerpaul]

I cheat with the collar, sewing the cape to one side, the coat to the other, using the sewing machine, then sewed the slot closed by hand.

The Simplicity pattern is for an overcoat with a short cape, not an Inverness cape, and would need quite a bit of alteration to make one from it. I suggest looking at the Butterick pattern

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

These patterns are getting few and far between though I have located a couple of the Butterick. Just depends on if I want to spend the money. With a bolt of cheap cotton/poly at hand I think Ill first try to piece together a cloak/cape that looks less of an overcoat. Ive cut all the pattern pieces and plan to use the cotton/poly to piece together and adjust to an acceptable look. I agree it does look overcoatish but I think I can work and remedy that. This will be an adventure of a project but I look forward to seeing if I can come up with the look I desire.

I agree collars can be gotten around and I do enjoy hand stitching so Ill make it all work.

[David Thorpe]

I found the Butterick pattern on Ebay and a couple other places. Still pretty rare and out-of-print.
I'm thinking heavy tweed. Off to the fabric store. It would be nice to have to wear for Burns Night.

[Kiltboy]

If you are making Simplicity #2517, take a minute and search site www.patternReview.com
It is free, if you have to join to search.
There is one lengthy review of this pattern and changes to the instructions to make it work. There is also an older review of pattern Butterick #3393 too.
Hope this helps.